o-ring chain stays internally lubed - less friction - less wear - longer lasting - etc. x-ring is supposed to work better than the o-ring at keeping the lube inside the rollers.

 

My understanding is that the x-ring has less surface area of the rubber contacting the links, therefor more room for lubrication and less friction and they are a bit more expensive but I believe they have a longer wear life as well...I couldn't fin a 108 link chain in a strength I felt safe with, so I had to order the 110 link. I just ordered n o-ring chain to keep some of the cost down for now, but if I really like the set-up and decide to stick with it, I may order the x-ring, maybe even a colored chain for bling..they get up in the $100 range.

 

do yourself a favor, order this chain and be done with it. needless to say it's tons stronger than stock and lots cheaper than the $100 you just quoted.

http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_ca...tId=&mmyId=

 

Thanks IG, but I placed my order before starting this thread, howeverI will save the link to this oneasit definatelyseems to be a good deal and the right length and ifI find that Iam happy with my 13/45 set-up, I would definately re-order this one for my next replacement..as I don't even think the chain I ordered has solid rollers, but I'll have to check. I do know it was rated for 30HP so should be okay for strength.

 

Hey IG thanks for the information, I think I would like to try that one next. Now for a followup question and this can go to anyone, I heard that when you take off your chain for whatever reason, for example to detail it, [8D] if you can make a good side arc with it then it could be time to replace it. Any thoughts?

 

makes sense. brian could probably tell you. I've always went by the stretch and how much it's been adjusted. these bikes don't put too much stress on the chainsince the power isn't really there like say a MX'er (less immediate snap with the CV carb). I doubt these oem chains are any different than what comes on the KX bikes which are making lots more power. I use to use oem chains for a whole MX season with never having one break. They're pretty tough, don't think they're o-ring though. The new KX chains may be different now though and could be o-ring.

 

I know there is a way to properly measure chain stretch to determine if it's replacement time or not, the manual should tell you...you measure a certain number of links and it should say in the manual your limits, I think it's like 20 links? but I could be wrong.

 

The chain wear measurements was one of the things I put on the torque quick reference card I made. Mark put it up on his web site for those that might want to snag it. Check here, at the very bottom, I think:

http://www.climbingschool.com/Kawasaki_250s.html

To measure, hang a 10 or 20 lb weight off the bottom of the chain so that it stretches the top tight. Then measure between 21 link pins, 1 .. 21 inclusive, count the pins. Should be between 317.5 mm and 318.2 mm or 12.50 and 12.53 inches. Those number came from the service manual.



EDIT: link pins, not links.