I just placed my order for a 45-tooth rear JT sprocket and 110 link chain, but would like to confirm up front how many links I have to remove from the chain before it gets here later in the week. I have the 13-tooth front sprocket on the bike now with stock chain, soI believe it was a 108 link chain we needed to run 13/45, right? That meansI need to remove 2 links (one narrow and one wide link--- looking down at the chain). I didn't order an extra clip link asI was told the chain comes with a master link (EK 110 link). Could someone who has this set-up confirm if I am correct or correct me where I am wrong, thanks ahead guys.

Oh yeah, and I don't have a chain break tool, but think I can accomplish the task with my dremel and pliers in the tool box. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks again.

 

you'd be a lot better off getting the chain brake tool - they aren't expensive. maybe you can even borrow one from autozone or something.

 

Thats how I do mine.

 

Dont worry about the links until you have everything mounted and ready to install the chain, then size it up and cut it. It sucks cutting a chain too short....BTDT!

 

I used a grinder to grind off the head of the rivet and then a punch to drive the rivet through. A chain breaker is much easier, I was just too cheap to buy one. Set up the chain length to run the 14/45 gearing. That way you'll have enough chain to also run the 13/45 gearing. I use both, depending on if I'm trail/enduro riding or riding a dual sport event. I tried the 14/48 gearing, but the larger rear sprocket hit the chain guide when I tried to move the rear wheel all the way forward. Don't skimp on the master links, I always carry two extras in my tool bag. I also cary a short piece of chain that starts with a half-link and ends with a full link. My theory is if you carry all this extra stuff, you won't ever need it. In a pinch you can get by with a ziptie as a master link.

 

just watch out - angle grinder can be dangerous - i should know...


[IMG]local://upfiles/6415/D0641868FBFD43839CADEC3706C76068.jpg[/IMG]

(if i wasn't such a fast clotter and healer the pics would look a lot worse, by the time the doctors got around to seeing me they had to scrub the scabs off to find all the mangled flesh underneith to which i heard them say "i can't tell what i'm looking at". they ended up having to cut off the skin to have something they could actually stitch back together, got my stitches out in 4 days and 8 days after that the last of the scabbing was gone and i have some nice scarring that is mostly hidden by hair.)

 

DUDE! thats messed up..... what happend.... the disc come apart?

 

the blade bound and exploded kicking it out of my hands, the whole grinder kick over into my face then down my chest and tangled up in my shirt. it was so stuck i had to unplug it so i could go find a mirror to check the damage. then spent 2 minutes untangling my shirt so i didn't have to show up in the ER with a power tool handing from my chest.

 

.......um,..........whydidn't youjust order a 108 link chain? denniskirk.com has a 108-link partsunlimited X-ring for like $60 with tensile strength rated as high as Renthalswhich aretwice the price. it's what I used on my KLX when I went to a 45 in the rear to compliment the 13 already on up front. Grinding on a chain is no fun as you obviously just found out.

 

Hey question for anyone. As we all know our bikes came with the o-ring chain, and if you go to the 13 tooth you can continue to use the stock chain, however if you step up the rear sprocket you need a different chain. My parts guy said that just a good regular (non o-ring) chain is what most of the guys he knows uses. But I was wondering what the pros of the o-ring or the x-ring chain were. I know the standard DID chain for me was about $45.00, what have you guys decided to run. I want to know before I get my next chain. Thanks all.

Whoa!! did I actually just post something about motorcycles? That felt great.[8D]