question for tm36-68 carb gurus
#1
question for tm36-68 carb gurus
Got it jetted. TM36-68 Pilot: 17.5, Main: 130, Needle jet: P4, Jet needle: 9EBY01-50 – clipped in 3rd from the top, Air Jet 0.9.
Have not ridden yet but warmed it up on the table.
Installed it. Took a bit to start, needs a little throttle to start. Even with choke.
Idles nice, but a quick whack of the throttle it bogs and dies.
Still working on figuring out AC setting. Seems most like it to come on almost right away...
Any words of wisdom ?
Have not ridden yet but warmed it up on the table.
Installed it. Took a bit to start, needs a little throttle to start. Even with choke.
Idles nice, but a quick whack of the throttle it bogs and dies.
Still working on figuring out AC setting. Seems most like it to come on almost right away...
Any words of wisdom ?
#2
So you haven't ridden it under load and fully warmed up by driving yet. Here's what I notice with mine. It usually seems fairly cold-blooded when started from a stone cold start. Even when it's been warm and running, if a little time passes like stopping to eat or lounge around for awhile, it usually needs a quick shot of choke to start...or...twist the throttle to kick in the AC pump. However, it likes the choke method better...apparently cleaner...less fuel than the squirter. Here's my take on your situation, and it may sound unorthodox, but I'd try it first before you go changing things without driving it first. Our jetting numbers are identical except for the main...mine is 127.5. My jetting is a bit on the lean side overall, but this results in clean running, crisp response, and great fuel mileage. The result of this has always been that my bike takes a fairly long time to warm up if just sitting still and trying to achieve full warmup at just idle or blipping the throttle. My routine is this. It starts up on choke fairly easily. Unless outside temps are hot as blazes, I leave it on choke for a longer period than most bikes I've had. When it runs without choke, I set up the idle up a bit and let it idle. Now, even when it seems warmed up, when I try to take off in a normal manner, it will stumble and stutter. I just use the accelerator pump judiciously with the throttle to get the bike moving and shift through the gears. By the time I hit third, the bike has cleaned out, responds perfectly, and shows no signs of being rich or lean. It's a little different than any bike I've ever owned. I've ridden this setup in many great off road riding areas all over the western U.S. Other than this cold startup routine, which isn't hard, the carburets perfectly. Even in altitude variations, I only touch the needle position which is really easy to access.
I have putzed with the jetting in several different tweaks to ease that cold startup throttle response, but every tweak negatively affected response at some point in the throttle position spread when the bike was actually being ridden. So, I've left it at these jetting numbers and just deal with the minor anomaly at the cold startup, which frankly is a very minor issue. As a result the bike runs perfectly in every situation and delivers great mileage. I've quit trying to mess with success for my situation. Now...I can't guarantee your results will be identical to mine. My bike is an '06, 300 KLX factory jug and piston, open air box, full Muzzy exhaust, and smog stuff removed. I mention all this to just suggest that you actually ride the bike first with your current jetting to see if you experience anything different than what you experienced in the shop.
I have putzed with the jetting in several different tweaks to ease that cold startup throttle response, but every tweak negatively affected response at some point in the throttle position spread when the bike was actually being ridden. So, I've left it at these jetting numbers and just deal with the minor anomaly at the cold startup, which frankly is a very minor issue. As a result the bike runs perfectly in every situation and delivers great mileage. I've quit trying to mess with success for my situation. Now...I can't guarantee your results will be identical to mine. My bike is an '06, 300 KLX factory jug and piston, open air box, full Muzzy exhaust, and smog stuff removed. I mention all this to just suggest that you actually ride the bike first with your current jetting to see if you experience anything different than what you experienced in the shop.
#3
You really need to do the meat of the tuning while the bike is nice and warmed up. The TM seems to be pretty picky about this as TNC points out
The cvk warmed up to normal operation in 2 -3 minutes. The TM takes at least 10+ in my experience - obviously varying mildly by location and ambient temps. I strongly suspect the main reason for this is that the needle jet isn't perforated like the CVK. They sell needlejets for the TM that are perforated but then you have to start dicking around with Main Air Jet's... and I just can't be bothered.
Once it's FULLY warmed up, If the bike is still missing a beat or flash stalling when snapping the throttle from a low RPM, you need to adjust your Acc Pump. The pump fills the gap between the air velocity pulling in the extra gas it needs and the sudden rush of extra air.
Despite the best possible scenario and tuning efforts, you're still going to have issues with a slider carb if you whack open the throttle at low RPM's. You don't have a vacuum slide to save your butt, it's just too much air all at once even with the AP helping out. I've upped my resting Idle to 1900-ish to help out on my stock bore 250.
With a carb this adjustable it's not surprising to hear different results even with damn near identical set ups, but I'd like to add that I've never needed the choke to start my bike once warm. It'll usually start up on the 2nd turn over with very little throttle input... still not as good as the CVK was after rejetting mind you, but perfectly acceptable.
The cvk warmed up to normal operation in 2 -3 minutes. The TM takes at least 10+ in my experience - obviously varying mildly by location and ambient temps. I strongly suspect the main reason for this is that the needle jet isn't perforated like the CVK. They sell needlejets for the TM that are perforated but then you have to start dicking around with Main Air Jet's... and I just can't be bothered.
Once it's FULLY warmed up, If the bike is still missing a beat or flash stalling when snapping the throttle from a low RPM, you need to adjust your Acc Pump. The pump fills the gap between the air velocity pulling in the extra gas it needs and the sudden rush of extra air.
Despite the best possible scenario and tuning efforts, you're still going to have issues with a slider carb if you whack open the throttle at low RPM's. You don't have a vacuum slide to save your butt, it's just too much air all at once even with the AP helping out. I've upped my resting Idle to 1900-ish to help out on my stock bore 250.
With a carb this adjustable it's not surprising to hear different results even with damn near identical set ups, but I'd like to add that I've never needed the choke to start my bike once warm. It'll usually start up on the 2nd turn over with very little throttle input... still not as good as the CVK was after rejetting mind you, but perfectly acceptable.
Last edited by pwjm; 11-04-2015 at 05:09 AM.
#4
Well, took her out for a 20 mile run.
Started slow, after a bit popped the throttle...
HOLY ****. Front wheel reached for the sky. Same in second gear. No bogging at all under load. As most said, it'd s bigger difference with the carb than woth the 351, but both together are amazing.
Gonna have to switch back to stock sprocket. The 13 makes first barely usable.
Anyways, still more tweaking needed but damn, the bike is a different machine.
Started slow, after a bit popped the throttle...
HOLY ****. Front wheel reached for the sky. Same in second gear. No bogging at all under load. As most said, it'd s bigger difference with the carb than woth the 351, but both together are amazing.
Gonna have to switch back to stock sprocket. The 13 makes first barely usable.
Anyways, still more tweaking needed but damn, the bike is a different machine.
#6
I used the set up in my sig, and after tweeking the idle, it rocks. I noticed as much, if not MORE, power difference from 351 to 68 and 351. The carb really opens up the 351!!
#8
The carb is a little bit of a bitch to get in, and the stock boots are *just* long enough to use... I didn't have to shave anything to make it fit tho, even with the IMS 3 gallon tank...
#10
I found it a tad lean on the 3rd clip, so forth is working great for me.
As for gas mileage I'm not sure.. it's definitely less than stock but I've never bothered checking it. That's why I got the IMS tank ☺
As for gas mileage I'm not sure.. it's definitely less than stock but I've never bothered checking it. That's why I got the IMS tank ☺