put my SF on the dyno.
#11
I have some experience in tuning cars, and I am with zomby.
Whilst 14.7 is stoich, anybody tuning for safe, reliable power will stick to the 12's.
CBF writing an essay about it so go right ahead and run your bike in the high 14's and look for the shock on my face when something melts.
Whilst 14.7 is stoich, anybody tuning for safe, reliable power will stick to the 12's.
CBF writing an essay about it so go right ahead and run your bike in the high 14's and look for the shock on my face when something melts.
#12
I have some experience in tuning cars, and I am with zomby.
Whilst 14.7 is stoich, anybody tuning for safe, reliable power will stick to the 12's.
CBF writing an essay about it so go right ahead and run your bike in the high 14's and look for the shock on my face when something melts.
Whilst 14.7 is stoich, anybody tuning for safe, reliable power will stick to the 12's.
CBF writing an essay about it so go right ahead and run your bike in the high 14's and look for the shock on my face when something melts.
If you want to start melting your top-end, go ahead and stay with stoich. Hope you get an 'A' on your paper though
#13
yeah stoich is not a good idea for power or safety. thats more economy. which i can understand under partial load. Not full load. Boosted applications want 12.9-13.5. N/A is cool around 13.5.
#16
Okay a stock turbo setup yeah a little leaner like 12.9-13.5, my hatch was almost always 12 flat to 12.3.
#17
Throw me like $150 and done!
#18
I would gladly contribute $50 for such cause.
If we get couple more people to chip in I'd say there's some very good information coming.
Myself, I don't have convenient access to dyno so I do all my carb tuning just using the LM-2.
--
Mikko
If we get couple more people to chip in I'd say there's some very good information coming.
Myself, I don't have convenient access to dyno so I do all my carb tuning just using the LM-2.
--
Mikko