?? Most of the "hard starting when cold" threads on here are from pre "09" owners. Prevalent well before "09". It seems that some carbs are ok from the factory, but most (any year) are cold starters. Mine was, Sounds like you got lucky EMS.
Dan

 

have you guys put on the new fuel adjustment screw so that you can adjust inplace?

 

i did,, koubalink screw

 

I didn't. You can adjust it with a regular flat head hex drive bit. Trouble is that while running the exhaust pipe would burn your fingers. I decided that most people install this adjustable screw but don't use it after intitial adjustment.

 

Just got my 2010 KLX. It starts kind of hard and it defintely needs mods, is taking the cover of the air box and snorkel off...just mean taking the cover under the seat off? I am also going to change the front sprocket. Is it really necessary to "break" it in? Stay at 4000 rpms or below for the first 500 miles... i am using this as a woods bike

 

There's lots of opinions on Break-In. I can't vouch for any, but this is an interesting read: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

KLXHunter - My father and I have been into competition sled pulling (4x4 trucks hooking to sleds on a dirt track and dragging the weight to see who can pull the furthest) and our typical engine is a $40,000 gasoline engine making 1,100-1,200 HP, 521ci big blocks, and we spin them 9,000 RPMs. When we put together a new engine and get it running and test/set/inspect everything... it gets pulled onto the trailer by winch and hauled to the track. It is pulled to the track by a Rhino/ATV and started about 3-5 min before GO time. The chain is hooked and pulled tight, the green light is given and the engine goes to 9,000 RPMs and holds it for about 25-35 seconds and is shut off. That broke it in.

I've broke in every engine I have built or purchased with my fathers rule in mind.... break it in as your going to use it. If your going to idle the thing around and baby it.... fine. If your going to get your moneys worth out of the machine.... drop the hammer and let it eat!

I do not believe in a break in period any more than the initial start up, idle it and modulate throttle until it reaches operating temp/pressure, shut it down and inspect for leakage and loose fastenters. No need for a complete cool down, just let it rest 10-15 min while your looking for problems. If it looks good.... let that thing eat!

 

looking at FMF Powercore 4 and Megabomb. Any thoughts?

 

Just did (couple weeks ago) the FMF Powerbomb/PC4 on mine with the jet kit and I was amazed at how much it helped the bike.

 

Larry- Kick ***. I didnt see your break in post before my last post. Thanks I appreciate it man. My hardware should be shipped to the house this weekend. With regards to the break in, I am going to be using it for a trail bike so they 4k, for 500 mile bull**** isnt going to cut it!

Did you guys end up doing the first service yourself? Ive got the manual and Ive worked on bikes before, is there any value added?