Preventing rust on headpipe?

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Old 07-13-2012, 06:14 PM
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Default Preventing rust on headpipe?

I received my KLX300 pipe/silencer yesterday and spent some time cleaning the rust and grime off. It's in really good condition for $60. I took it down to a nice browned/blued appearance and would like to keep it that way.

I don't clean my bike as much as some so I was wondering if there's anything I can apply to the headpipe to prevent the surface rust. I seem to remember a thread on another forum where some people sprayed their pipes with WD40 and it kinda "baked on" preventing surface rust from forming.

Does anyone have another idea or maybe have already tried the "bake on" rust prevention? I'd like to do what I can before I switch the new exhaust in.

Also, I'm presently running a Keihin 122 Main jet. The 300R system is going to move a lot more air. Will a jump to a 125 Keihin and 1/4-1/2 turn on the mixture screw be a good starting point for the rejet?

I'm also stalling a little cause my Krieger CCT should be in the mailbox today or tomorrow and IIRC my Husky 610 correctly, they are way easier to install with the exhaust off.

This is on an 07 250S with the cheap/free mods, UNI and snorkel out.
 

Last edited by djchan; 07-13-2012 at 06:18 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-13-2012, 06:22 PM
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how does it look?....i just picked up a new fmf megabomb header for $85 cash couple days ago...haven't put it on yet...i had no intention of getting one, but the price was just too good to pass up for a new part...wonder if i need a heat shield for this bulb of a header...

 

Last edited by ahnh666; 07-13-2012 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:47 PM
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hmm...bought a heat shield to be safe...spent another $33...oh well...i heard little chain oil rubbed on the pipes can help prevent rust...

 
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:12 PM
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Did a klr headpipe with VHT spray paint (silver) that lasted longer than expected. The key was good prep and following the directions on the can exactly , which included cure time in oven.

On snowmobile expansion chambers (which don't fit in the oven, LOL) I blow my heat gun in the end of the pipe to warm between many light coats. I like to use clear high temp because you can't see where it burnt off, and I can touch it up spraying through a cardboard TP tube, any over spray isn't really visible.

you could also pay for powder of ceramic coat, jet-hot etc.
 
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:13 PM
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Thanks everyone. In the end, I just couldn't wait for the pipe or the CCT. I was COMPELLED to install the 300R exhaust. BTW, sounds great. Only a bit louder than stock at idle and much deeper tone. Seat of the pants - oh, yeah - quite noticeable low and mid. Definitely need to go one up on the main (122K to 125K) or maybe it can be done with a lower clip position on the needle.
 
  #6  
Old 07-14-2012, 01:45 AM
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i header wrapped my fmf 2yrs ago and have been concerned enough to look but it seems to be fine
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:00 PM
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Aesthetic Finishers from Piqua Ohio, coaters for Supertrapp. Had my unobtanium pipe recoated after some surface rust bubbled through the old JetHot coating I had done 12 years ago. There had to be rust on the pipe before they applied the ceramic coating. It was bubbling in a few years, but didn't actually pop the ceramic off until about two years ago. I went with Aesthetic Finishers the second time after talking with them both at the GoodGuys street rod show and on the phone. They were a bit more expensive due to the stripping of the old coating, but the turnaround was fairly fast.

It may seem expensive at roughly $150 for the pipe (mine was $188 due to stripping the old coating) but I never cleaned my exhaust and the head pipe had only a few scratches in the old JetHot coating with just a slight hint of rust. The stuff is darn near impervious to weather and heat. The galvanic nature of the coating will heal over the small scratches. Had it not been for the poor prep on the megaphone I'd still be running the JetHot after 12 years with no particular care taken. It also provides some insulating factor holding heat into the pipe, good for exhaust gas velocity, and cutting heat radiation significantly (cooler leg) without retaining any moisture like wraps may, or having to be repainted. Heck, even the rust I did have took 12 years to get through. That's why I recoated, emphsizing I wanted it cleaned carefully.

Here's a shot of the new coating job:



No painting, no special care required. I do understand you can keep it pretty using some kind of polish, but I forgot which one. I know a phone call to Aesthetic Finishers will get the product name when I want it.

As for colors or black, I understand the coloring is a thin coating over the standard silver/aluminum look and that it can scratch, revealing the silver finish.

I will use this finish on any exhaust I do. It is the same stuff used on street rods, muscle cars, race cars and other high heat applications. Bite the bullet, pay the price and you won't regret it.
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:07 PM
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Good info, klx. That's within striking distance for me. I gave them a prop on Twitter. Website: Aesthetic Finishers - Ceramic Header Coating and Powder Coating - Home. Looks great.
 
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:03 PM
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Move to Utah, and park it in the garage when not riding it. Viola! No rust!!!.
 
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