Post "free mods" report : My veresion
#73
09-26-2008, 03:44 PM
Wasn't going to add much more to this but being there aren't alot of threads with much conversation on them I may as well.
I decided to put the 13t on yesterday. I have a strange result. It's not like it was before. The problem I complained about how the gearing in 1st gear (too high to properly pull out) with the 14t on is fixed. It is able to pull out normally. And When I go to wind the bike out, its actually faster than with the 14t. I don't just mean it accelerates faster, I mean its actually faster at top speed and when WOT it pulls harder and still revs just the same. I would not have thought this because when I have the 14T on and am in high gear WOT it still feels like its pulling. Aparently its not. I don't know about you guys but I don't rev my bike much past 8K. Maybe its still not jetted right, maybe the bikes not right...I don't know. But to me, if there was no tach I would guess the redline to be 8500 -9K. Not 10500 RPM. It just seems like thats too much for it. And yesterday, if I remember correctly, at 8K it was 75mph indicated. And like I said I felt more pull at that RPM as well. With the 14T on depending on the road at 8K it was like 70-72 mph indicated with less pull.
Almost makes me think what the 12t would be like now. Because even with the 13t its still no where near pulling a wheelie or anything. Its not THAT quick out of the gate. Granted I'm not done jetting and tuning. Plus I'm still thinking I may pull the airbox lid off still. I don't know. I wish these things had a snap ring holding the front sprocket on like a MX bike, not that big nut with that washer you have to flatten over. Of course, if I was smart about it and knew I was going to be going back and forth I could of just left the plastic guard off and left the washer off and just snugged the nut down so it's not so difficult to get off. With the constant pressure of the chain being on it and the sprocket fitting the splines of the shaft so perfect I don't beleive that sprocket is going anywhere. You could get away with not putting a nut at all on it (I would never do that, but just as a bet I don't think it would go anywhere). Or putting the nut on finger tight and just using a wrench to snug it down with the bike left in gear and just tighten it until the piston turns over. For temporary testing I think that would be plenty, I wouldn't leave it like that. The jackass I bought my bike from was all about torquing everything down like a bodybuilder. I just noticed the top bolt on the plastic front sprocket gaurd thingy... right where it goes into the case is broken off. I didn't notice it because its a pretty clean break and its not in the case just that flange part that sticks out, and theres still plenty of threads inside the case so it still screws in fine. But he obviously turned that little 8mm bolt down so hard it snapped that off. Everything else I took on the bike that I know he worked on was torqued down so hard it was unreal. The first time I took the front sprocket off (not the 14t with the flanged inside, the flat 12t aftermarket one) I completely flattened the washer behind the nut and could NOT get that thing off. I had to get the impact gun with penetrating oil and it must have taken about 10 five second bursts to break it loose. That was just one of many things that was on WAY too tight.
Just thinking outloud, making conversation.
________
E63/E64
I decided to put the 13t on yesterday. I have a strange result. It's not like it was before. The problem I complained about how the gearing in 1st gear (too high to properly pull out) with the 14t on is fixed. It is able to pull out normally. And When I go to wind the bike out, its actually faster than with the 14t. I don't just mean it accelerates faster, I mean its actually faster at top speed and when WOT it pulls harder and still revs just the same. I would not have thought this because when I have the 14T on and am in high gear WOT it still feels like its pulling. Aparently its not. I don't know about you guys but I don't rev my bike much past 8K. Maybe its still not jetted right, maybe the bikes not right...I don't know. But to me, if there was no tach I would guess the redline to be 8500 -9K. Not 10500 RPM. It just seems like thats too much for it. And yesterday, if I remember correctly, at 8K it was 75mph indicated. And like I said I felt more pull at that RPM as well. With the 14T on depending on the road at 8K it was like 70-72 mph indicated with less pull.
Almost makes me think what the 12t would be like now. Because even with the 13t its still no where near pulling a wheelie or anything. Its not THAT quick out of the gate. Granted I'm not done jetting and tuning. Plus I'm still thinking I may pull the airbox lid off still. I don't know. I wish these things had a snap ring holding the front sprocket on like a MX bike, not that big nut with that washer you have to flatten over. Of course, if I was smart about it and knew I was going to be going back and forth I could of just left the plastic guard off and left the washer off and just snugged the nut down so it's not so difficult to get off. With the constant pressure of the chain being on it and the sprocket fitting the splines of the shaft so perfect I don't beleive that sprocket is going anywhere. You could get away with not putting a nut at all on it (I would never do that, but just as a bet I don't think it would go anywhere). Or putting the nut on finger tight and just using a wrench to snug it down with the bike left in gear and just tighten it until the piston turns over. For temporary testing I think that would be plenty, I wouldn't leave it like that. The jackass I bought my bike from was all about torquing everything down like a bodybuilder. I just noticed the top bolt on the plastic front sprocket gaurd thingy... right where it goes into the case is broken off. I didn't notice it because its a pretty clean break and its not in the case just that flange part that sticks out, and theres still plenty of threads inside the case so it still screws in fine. But he obviously turned that little 8mm bolt down so hard it snapped that off. Everything else I took on the bike that I know he worked on was torqued down so hard it was unreal. The first time I took the front sprocket off (not the 14t with the flanged inside, the flat 12t aftermarket one) I completely flattened the washer behind the nut and could NOT get that thing off. I had to get the impact gun with penetrating oil and it must have taken about 10 five second bursts to break it loose. That was just one of many things that was on WAY too tight.
Just thinking outloud, making conversation.
________
E63/E64
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:20 AM.
#74
09-26-2008, 03:57 PM
Wasn't going to add much more to this but being there aren't alot of threads with much conversation on them I may as well.
I decided to put the 13t on yesterday. I have a strange result. It's not like it was before. The problem I complained about how the gearing in 1st gear (too high to properly pull out) with the 14t on is fixed. It is able to pull out normally. And When I go to wind the bike out, its actually faster than with the 14t. I don't just mean it accelerates faster, I mean its actually faster at top speed and when WOT it pulls harder and still revs just the same. I would not have thought this because when I have the 14T on and am in high gear WOT it still feels like its pulling. Aparently its not. I don't know about you guys but I don't rev my bike much past 8K. Maybe its still not jetted right, maybe the bikes not right...I don't know. But to me, if there was no tach I would guess the redline to be 8500 -9K. Not 10500 RPM. It just seems like thats too much for it. And yesterday, if I remember correctly, at 8K it was 75mph indicated. And like I said I felt more pull at that RPM as well. With the 14T on depending on the road at 8K it was like 70-72 mph indicated with less pull.
Almost makes me think what the 12t would be like now. Because even with the 13t its still no where near pulling a wheelie or anything. Its not THAT quick out of the gate. Granted I'm not done jetting and tuning. Plus I'm still thinking I may pull the airbox lid off still. I don't know. I wish these things had a snap ring holding the front sprocket on like a MX bike, not that big nut with that washer you have to flatten over. Of course, if I was smart about it and knew I was going to be going back and forth I could of just left the plastic guard off and left the washer off and just snugged the nut down so it's not so difficult to get off. With the constant pressure of the chain being on it and the sprocket fitting the splines of the shaft so perfect I don't beleive that sprocket is going anywhere. You could get away with not putting a nut at all on it (I would never do that, but just as a bet I don't think it would go anywhere). Or putting the nut on finger tight and just using a wrench to snug it down with the bike left in gear and just tighten it until the piston turns over. For temporary I think that would be plenty. Just thinking outloud.
I decided to put the 13t on yesterday. I have a strange result. It's not like it was before. The problem I complained about how the gearing in 1st gear (too high to properly pull out) with the 14t on is fixed. It is able to pull out normally. And When I go to wind the bike out, its actually faster than with the 14t. I don't just mean it accelerates faster, I mean its actually faster at top speed and when WOT it pulls harder and still revs just the same. I would not have thought this because when I have the 14T on and am in high gear WOT it still feels like its pulling. Aparently its not. I don't know about you guys but I don't rev my bike much past 8K. Maybe its still not jetted right, maybe the bikes not right...I don't know. But to me, if there was no tach I would guess the redline to be 8500 -9K. Not 10500 RPM. It just seems like thats too much for it. And yesterday, if I remember correctly, at 8K it was 75mph indicated. And like I said I felt more pull at that RPM as well. With the 14T on depending on the road at 8K it was like 70-72 mph indicated with less pull.
Almost makes me think what the 12t would be like now. Because even with the 13t its still no where near pulling a wheelie or anything. Its not THAT quick out of the gate. Granted I'm not done jetting and tuning. Plus I'm still thinking I may pull the airbox lid off still. I don't know. I wish these things had a snap ring holding the front sprocket on like a MX bike, not that big nut with that washer you have to flatten over. Of course, if I was smart about it and knew I was going to be going back and forth I could of just left the plastic guard off and left the washer off and just snugged the nut down so it's not so difficult to get off. With the constant pressure of the chain being on it and the sprocket fitting the splines of the shaft so perfect I don't beleive that sprocket is going anywhere. You could get away with not putting a nut at all on it (I would never do that, but just as a bet I don't think it would go anywhere). Or putting the nut on finger tight and just using a wrench to snug it down with the bike left in gear and just tighten it until the piston turns over. For temporary I think that would be plenty. Just thinking outloud.
Secondly. I know you wouldn't do it but I wouldn't even think it. When she's spinning up at 9K plus, the CS sprocket will come off if you don't bolt it up. Train wreck with your chain and engine case. One expensive lesson.
If you want wheelies add a 47 tooth rear or bigger to you 13 front.
You'll need a longer chain though.
Last edited by WestOzKLX; 09-26-2008 at 04:05 PM.
#76
09-26-2008, 04:03 PM
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 12,584
just throw a 51 tooth sprocket on the back......
With the stock exhaust, your jetting sounds screwy... something aint right.....
BTW, if you bought this bike thinking it would be able to pull wheelies all day right out of the box.... just sell it now.... thats not this bike.... go get a bigger cc bike....
With the stock exhaust, your jetting sounds screwy... something aint right.....
BTW, if you bought this bike thinking it would be able to pull wheelies all day right out of the box.... just sell it now.... thats not this bike.... go get a bigger cc bike....
#77
09-26-2008, 04:20 PM
OZ. Yeah I know it doesn't sound right. My memory could be faulty. Lot of stuff going on to pay attention to when riding rather than remembering stats so it could be off. My reasoning for justifying this was thinking ........ well, yeah it doesn't make any sense. I have to be wrong. But I do know it was easier to not only hit 70mph but exceede it quicker and easier in a short span of time. Never got it faster than that because I just did it yesterday and don't have much time on it. As for the 14 tooth. After the rejet I don't have a whole lot on it either, but it took longer to hit 70 and for the short straight stetches around here I had to let off in fear of going past known speed traps or running out of straight road. So I don't know if that was it for top speed or if I could of creeped more out of it. Long and short of it, I put the 13T on expecting a noticable loss in speed and as far as "feeling" goes I gained it. So it was win win for me....so far.
EMS. I'm not looking to pull wheelies. I've done enough of that on my MX bikes. I was just making the comment because I saw others mentioning simply putting that sprocket on will pull wheelies. Even bone stock with the 12t on mine wasn't doing that. So rejetted with a 13T its not popping the front end anytime soon. Maybe with more air/fuel flow and a 12T on the bike may start thinking about it.
________
SELL VAPORIZERS
EMS. I'm not looking to pull wheelies. I've done enough of that on my MX bikes. I was just making the comment because I saw others mentioning simply putting that sprocket on will pull wheelies. Even bone stock with the 12t on mine wasn't doing that. So rejetted with a 13T its not popping the front end anytime soon. Maybe with more air/fuel flow and a 12T on the bike may start thinking about it.
________
SELL VAPORIZERS
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:21 AM.
#78
09-26-2008, 04:24 PM
FMX do you have an 07? That would explain a lot as they have a taller 6th gear than the 09. Lowering the gearing actually gives them that little extra to pull higher RPM in top gear effectively giving a higher top speed despite the lower gearing.
#79
09-26-2008, 04:29 PM
[QUOTE=WestOzKLX;327740]Secondly. I know you wouldn't do it but I wouldn't even think it. When she's spinning up at 9K plus, the CS sprocket will come off if you don't bolt it up. Train wreck with your chain and engine case. One expensive lesson.
[QUOTE]
Haha of course. And I'm sure you guys are getting sick of my MX bike references because I'm almost sick of making them...but, as I said they only have snap rings, and they aren't even a tight fit. You slip the sprocket on snap the right on and theres actually some free space between the two. So its not like these bikes with the nut TIGHTLY against it so its locked dead fast. They don't hit the same land speeds as these bikes do but they rev quite high. Depending on 2 or 4 stroke and what brand and model. I think the 4 strokes actually have a bigger bore and shorter stroke so they rev higher even. So when a chain comes off the case goes KUH-CHUNK! I know, I TIG welded alot back together in my shop. Not from new bikes though. Always old ones with people not running the case gaurd and super old *** chains that had the tensile strength left of a rubber band. But anyway, back to the point, they have play in them but as soon as you put the chain on and tighten it up to the proper slack the sprocket doesnt move. And when you put tension on it from the motor, its not going anywhere.
But like you and I both said I would never do it and would hope no one else ever does, but just as a bet if a nut did fall off on the trail and didn't realize it you could keep riding and not realize a thing. Just making conversation.
________
Bbw japanese
[QUOTE]
Haha of course. And I'm sure you guys are getting sick of my MX bike references because I'm almost sick of making them...but, as I said they only have snap rings, and they aren't even a tight fit. You slip the sprocket on snap the right on and theres actually some free space between the two. So its not like these bikes with the nut TIGHTLY against it so its locked dead fast. They don't hit the same land speeds as these bikes do but they rev quite high. Depending on 2 or 4 stroke and what brand and model. I think the 4 strokes actually have a bigger bore and shorter stroke so they rev higher even. So when a chain comes off the case goes KUH-CHUNK! I know, I TIG welded alot back together in my shop. Not from new bikes though. Always old ones with people not running the case gaurd and super old *** chains that had the tensile strength left of a rubber band. But anyway, back to the point, they have play in them but as soon as you put the chain on and tighten it up to the proper slack the sprocket doesnt move. And when you put tension on it from the motor, its not going anywhere.
But like you and I both said I would never do it and would hope no one else ever does, but just as a bet if a nut did fall off on the trail and didn't realize it you could keep riding and not realize a thing. Just making conversation.
________
Bbw japanese
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:21 AM.
#80
09-26-2008, 04:30 PM
________
IPAD GUIDES
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:21 AM.