No worries mate. I'm trying to follow a few threads at the moment on jetting and I'm having a hard time trying to remember all the different settings you guys are running. For a second there I was sure you were running a pipe, that threw me a little. I re-read the whole thread. Set myself straight. .
BTW does your stock pipe have a removable plug?
The stock pipe down here doesn't. I'm sure it's only the KLX300 pipe that has a removable plug.!

 

No, its not removable. I was thinking when the next 300 pipe went on ebay I would try and pick it up. I was thinking of replacing the endcap with either that billet one that one guy sales on ebay or just fabbing one up at home. Something that looks alot better than the one thats on there and flows a bit more but still offers a little backpressure. I imagine the larger diameter headpipe and lack of catalayic converter would allow more flow. But the stock silencer would still be relatively quiet and would appear stock. And if I used the billet endcap I would spray paint it flat black. After it burned in it would appear stock to the untrained eye and if I fabbed one I was going to use the stock plate and get a piece of bent 7/8" pipe and weld it on. Im a professional welder so I can weld it like factory, it wouldn't look like some homejob bubble gum weld. Then just paint it flat black as well.

What I wander is why they have it removable for the 300 and not the 250. I assume its to clean it right??? But then again, doesn't the 250's need cleaning as well? I just don't understand stuff like that sometimes.
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Herbal Air 2.1

 

dude, the 300 headpipe is identical to the 250's except for it's about 3/4" longer. there is no larger diameter. This too, has been hashed to death. I suggest you use the search function to research mods before you do something you really don't know much about.
Also, the endcap is removeable on the 300 because it's an off-road only bike. The 250's is not removeable because it's a street legal bike and therefore has to pass emissions. Removing it wouldn't make it compliant with epa regs.

My suggestion to you, since it doesn't sound like you really are wanting to spend a lot of money on any exhaust component, is to at least buy the HMF slip-on. It will flow better than the stock 250 muffler but is attainable for around $200 and works with the stock 250 header. Of course if you want all out flow and performance, a BigGun or Muzzy full simply cannot be beat.

 

OK I'm with you now, I see what you are getting at. I've always wondered why they have to have so many vent hoses. There's the wad of the giant grey ones that come out, and then the one with the clear catch (which I ellimiated). Definately could have done a better job on engineering in that aspect. Speaking of the plug, I really need to pull mine and scope it out, now that I'm beyond 3K miles.

I love me some TNG. Not a huge fan of the rest of Trek, but TNG was the shizzle.

 

I do pay attention and everything everyone said around where I saw said it was larger and longer. Now your saying its the same? Which is it? I certainly wouldn't call it hashed to death. Maybe long in the past, but not recently, because I've been here recently and have seen no hashing. And even if I did buy it so what? I can still do my end cap mod, that will help. And if I get it off ebay that is minimal money spent. So what's the big deal?

And heres my hand at logic. To repeat what I said before, if two bikes have the same part and the part requires cleaning on one machine then therefore it should require cleaning on another. Thats like having a removable air cleaner on one bike and not another because they don't want you to mess with the intake. Both bikes in fairness should have a removable endplate. IF its there for cleaning purposes. Because logic would also dictate if one bike is an on/off road bike and one is STRICTLY off road then if any bikes arrestor/endplate should be mandatory its the off road bike because its constantly being ridden in an environment that be technically set a blaze. Where as the on road machine could technically be ridden on pavement where there is no worry of catching a forrest on fire. This statement ONLY applies IF that plate is indead a cleanable spark arrestor. It may just be a baffle. And ya know what, I'm thinking that just may be what it is. Because as logic would also dictate, that would make the most sense as to being an on road's noise levels would have to be lower. That's my guess as to what it is now that I've thought about it.

Oh, and to me, even dropping $200 in a HMF can is a waste of money (at this point in time for me) because thats $200, thats alot of dough. And it will probably be too loud for my liking. If the modified used 300 system is too loud I can put the old 250 one back on and I will have only wasted a minimum amount of money, and thats worth the shot and I have the satisfaction of knowing. But chances are, its not going to be that loud. Or at least too loud for my taste.
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Vaporizers

 

Fo' shizzle. I've seen every episode of every series at least once,..most of them more than once. Some I've seen many times. However, TNG was, and still is, by far my favorite series.


Oh, todays update ride report. It would seem as if the bottom end (pilot) is indeed too rich. It seems as if the idle does vary still. I would say just a shave above 1K RPM and a little above 1500 RPM (on todays run). If I'm running on the very bottom end of the powerband it seems to glub, like I have speed and momentum going but it goes in sputs, or cutouts, or splurges...and kinda wants to heave me forward. I even stalled it in traffic. Ya know when your at a light and everyone keeps moving up slowly? Well with the stock gearing on being really high and 1st gear being cut way too high for it and the idle varying, it wasn't hard to stall it. And when I went to start it, it turned over a few times instead of just firing right up like it usually does. Then, it actually sneezed at me. Like what my CR 500 would do all the time, and my 250's would do occasionaly. Like you would kick and kick and kick it, as if seeming to building up a bunch of fuel in the cylinder and then it ignites all at once and goes SHHHCHEEEEWWW! Kind of like a sissy backfire. The mid and top range still seemed to be fine. The kawasaki shop didn't have a #35 pilot on stock, they had to order it. The guy's like "how about a #40, want to try that?" I said, "well I have a #38 and its too rich so thats gonna work" haha. It should be in next week he said. Hopefully he gets the right one, because he didn't write it down and he had to ask me twice before I left "#35, right?" I'm not worried about it though, if they don't get it, I'm sure another shop will have one somewhere.
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Corvette C6

 

The 300 header is the same in diameter as the 250 header Full Muffler King is right.

 

Muffler King! LOL

 

your posts are too long.
now you see I'm right about the 300 header. I'm right about most of what I say on here because I've got experience of my own along with others'. In between my two KLX's, I had a DRZSM which had a removeable buttplug on the muffler just like the 300's. I took it off and it was very loud. It, like the 300's, acts not only as a baffle/noise reducer, but as a spark arrestor as well. If you take your bike off-road and get stopped by a ranger, he'll more than likely stick a rod in your muffler to see if it is stopped by the spark arrestor. If it doesn't, you'll get a ticket.
If you buy this harder to find than you think 300 exhaust, removing the buttplug will result in alot more noise and no spark arrestor. These exhausts are very hard to find, trust me on that as I was looking for one myself before buying my cheap Muzzy full.
But the jist of it is this- you'll need the whole system to use the 300 muffler and it will more than likely cost you upwards of $60 or so if you can even find one which I bet you can't. Why not just spend the $200 on the HMF which people on here claim sounds good and makes good power. The investment is minimal and you can always sell it. You really are making things too complicated for yourself. Buy the slip-on along with a DJ jet kit or the keihin parts, plug in a 128 main and the stock pilot, go 2.5 turns on the fuel screw, remove your airbox lid, install a Uni-filter or Twin-Air filter and call it a day.

 

Part of the theme of thread is about my current carb setup. I'm already beyond a #128 main. And already have a UNI.

And please quit exagerating. I'm not making a big deal out of anything. Your the one who feels some sort of drive to drag things out of context and correct everyone whether they need it or not then reach your arm past your massively swollen head to pat yourself on the back about it. Thats like starting fires so you can have the credit for putting them out. You were starting to converse like a normal human being there so I was trying to talk to you but now your reverting to how you were earlier. Your impossible. I won't resort to petty argueing on a message board. Fighting on the internet is like the special olympics, even if you win your still retarded.

And by the by, I've already seen a few on Ebay go by during my ownership of this bike, so its not like its impossible to find one.
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Drug tests