Indeedy - several K less, not to mention sparse dealer support around here. With what I've spent, it puts my bike roughly in the price of a stock Yami WR or thereabouts, perhaps a little less - that's counting the bore upgrades, carb, pipe, etc. But the WR is not street legal and I'd be having to do a conversion to ride the street. It was better for me to start with the KLX since it was street legal right out of the box and I could start riding and enjoying it immediately and do the upgrades as time and money permitted.

Actually, the progression I took with the KLX worked out well for me. When I got my KLX, I had not ridden in a long time and it allowed me to get used to riding again on something that I wasn't going to kill myself on as well as the upgrade progression allowed me to get used to incrementally higher and higher performance as my riding improved. It's at the point now where my skills probably need to catch up to the bike, so I think I'll be happy with it for some time to come. I did a lot of mods this first year - starting now and next year I'm just going to enjoy the fruits of that labor.

 

That "fellow" -Sully Dirt- also visits this forum frequently .

 

Marty, was wondering if you were also looking at putting the springs/retainers on with the cams? What about the oversized valves? Do you plan on having the head ported and bench flowed?

 

2k1w=no$,

At this time, no.

Why? Well, most folks won't spend that kind of money to have it done. I'm just looking to put together a "FRUGAL" way of going pumper style carb.

Of course, when I finally get this stage done and go for the 331 cc bore job, of course I'll tinker, polish, flow check and do whatever else I can. My bike will HAVE to be faster than the one Nobrakes has!

 

Hey Marty just a bit of advice .... If you don't mind. I spent some time working on the head on my dragbike or my mechanic did and he is one of the best Cylinder head guys I no he had a flow bench in the shop and he knew what to cut and grind to get the HP... One thing he never did was waste time polishing he could do 2 ports as close as possible polish one and just leave one rough and the rough one was always flowing the same or better than the polished one. I'm just saying this because I saw it with my own eyes. Most of the guys just do that pretty stuff for show and charge more. Heads are an art work and not many have the skill......

 

Bring it, baby!

Hopefully I'll have a dyno reading soon and we'll get a baseline for this level of mods. Not exactly fair me doing the dyno chart first because you know what you need to beat - you can just keep at it until you get a better curve and then publish that one

And no cheating - I think we'll able able to tell the difference between your KLX and your Strom on the dyno chart so don't try and slip a Strom run past us and claim it's your KLX!

But whatever the dyno shows or doesn't show, mine's right where I want it. If I do a cam upgrade, it will probably be more to avoid KACR problems than anything else, though a performance boost will be an acceptable side effect

 

Has anyone tried to use the stock cam with the KACR??????
I guess you could just remove it and see if the bikes starts in all conditions. I have heard a noise in mine from day one and I am sure the comp release makes noise even when it is new and working properly.
I didn't buy a warranty but if I have problems with this part I will rip it off the cam and try it .

 

Whether it is the right choice or not, I'm ordering the #101 grind from Web Cams here pretty darn soon.

Here's my reasoning:

The stock cam duration is 264 on the intake, 260 on the exhaust.

The #101 grind is 272 on both intake and exhaust. A rather small increase in duration.

No, this does not take into consideration the points BTDC and ABDC or BBDC and ATDC that the valves open and close. Stock cam timing is

Intake: 22 BTDC / 62 ABDC
Exhaust: 61 BBDC / 19 ATDC

I think I'll give another call to Web Cams and ask to talk to one of the R&D guys so I can get more specs on the cam timing for making the final decision.

At present I'm thinking the #101 will not kill the bottom end, enhance the mid range and top end. When the 331 kit is in the bike, I think that will cover any loss of bottom end, but kick butt on the mid range / top end.

Might have to buy a set of their swirl polished stainless steel valves - probably the 30 mm (up sized 1.5 mm) and really make the power!

I'll have to check the price on the machine work for that! Of course, it will make more power than Nobrakes, so it might be worth it! [8D]

 

Well, I'm partial to my low end grunt but if you can get those cams to continue pulling above 7500 where the KLX seems to top out power-wise, I'm sure you will have a winner

Nothing but good can come from more power!

 

Marty, lobe centerine I think its called or lobe separation angle, anyway determines in what powerband the cam will work, is measured in degrees like 106, 108, 110 etc.
Also overlap is something to look at as it kills bottom end, two of the cams you mentioned are similar in duration at 000 lift but very different at .050 indicating a more agressive ramp. I really would like to know more about the subject but it was two years ago and I have to look in my notes to refresh my memory, and last cam degreeing you can advance or retard intake and exhaust cams to make more torque or top end .phewww endless combos. Cams make or break an engine.

Don't forget if you go with higher lift watch for coil bind on stock valve springs!!! Ask web cam if springs are part of the deal...

Good luck Marty