Mototune's theory about breaking in new engines seems logical to me so I decided to use that method for my bike. I picked up my new bike today from the dealer and it had 1 mile on it. I rode home doing the best I could to follow the rpm guidelines, getting on it for a few gears but not over ~7000 rpms, varying rpms etc. Traffic and survival takes priority over the rpm guidelines but I think I did pretty good.

Here is the oil filter after only 22 miles and a new filter for comparison. Now I don't know what color the used filter started out as but it's safe to say it's dirty. I especially like that big chunk of whatever that's sitting there. I wasn't able to get a real good look at the oil itself, but at glance it looked reasonably clear. BUT... looking closer, there were very small blobs of silver in it which is extremely fine metal powder, almost like a paste. It was also in the threads of the drain plug which makes sense, lowest point, metal particles settling.

So based on what I saw today, especially the dirty filter, the Mototune method seems valid so far. If nothing else, I got that nasty filter out of there. I plan the next oil and filter change around 100-150 miles then if that looks good, probably every 2 or 3 thousand after that. I'll see how it goes.

A side note, right before I left the dealer, he mentioned about breaking in the engine. He specifically said NOT to follow the method in the owner's manual because it's unrealistic and I'd end up hurt from being to slow trying to stay under 4000 rpms. He said just ride normal to break it in.

 

Same here. I changed again around 250, 700, and 1500. I should be good for a while now.
Just watch the sight glass for correct fill.

 

I did mine at 100..and Im riding it below 7k..will do it at 500 and then 1000 and change to Syn oil then..fist most is getting it out at 100 mi

 

I just changed mine for the first time last night. I thought I was too early when I saw what the oil looked like coming out, but not when I saw the filter. Glad I didn't put it off any longer, it was grungy.

 

Personally i wouldn't worry about Syn oil.

I think its a bunch of marketing hoopla personally.

Good JASO-MA dino oil will do you just as well at half the cost IMO.

 

+1.

I've got over 34,000 kms running on dino. Changed every 3000 kms.

 

Ever since Castrol won the lawsuit against Mobil to call severly-hydrocracked petroleum a "synthetic", the term is now a marketing term, not a scientific one. MOST oils today labeled "synthetic" are not made in the lab, but, are simply severely hydrocracked petroleum. The GOOD thing about that is: they keep the cost way down, while providing darn good results. However, it's hard to beat good old Rotella 15w-40, changed every 1000-1500 miles...maybe longer if you're all road riding.

The thing about oil filters is: they get MORE efficient at removing debris as they capture more and more particles. Only when they get old (over one year in use) or get saturated enough to go into bypass, does it really benefit your Used Oil Analysis values to change them out. So, don't change the filter every time...every other time, or longer (if supported by UOA's) is not only fine...you get lower Insoluable counts in your UOA's with an filter on the second oil interval compared to the first.

 

that filter is not dirty! thats what oil looks like after it has been ran at 180-200 degrees. if u follow your theory that your filter is dirty after 22 miles better change it out every 22 miles then!

 

There's a difference though between the first 22 (or 200) miles, and all the other 22 (or 200) miles that follow.

Here's another crappy cell pic (can't help it, it's handy) of mine. Fuzzy pic, but in the bright sun you can see the metallic bits shining & pick out other bits in places. I'm kinda glad that's out of my motor even if it shouldn't go anywhere past the filter.

 

Mile 0-22 and Mile 100-122 or 1000-1022 etc are vastly different in terms of engine wear.