oil circulation problem
#31
BikeBandit.com has the shop manuals. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...-2007/o/m10034 You will need both, in spite of what your dealer said about them not being specific to your bike. Any time you feel you've put too much oil in the bike, use a turkey baster or large syringe with a hose attached to the tip. Pull out enough oil to get the level where you want. Pg. 6-4 of the supplement shop manual says 1.3 L when filter is not removed, 1.4 L when filter is removed, and 1.5 L when engine is completely dry. Level amount is between upper and lower lines.
#33
OK I see two bolts, now what? I saw in a thread that someone said to check the tensioner when changing your oil. They said someone had found that the tensioner had come apart and pieces were in the oil screen going to the oil pump. It sounds like to me that they were pulling the entire side of the engine off to check the oil screen for debris as well as see that the tensioner was intack. What do you do with these two bolts that you have in the picture? How would you check that from taking them out?
#34
Didn't think I needed to.
If I had excess cam chain rattle maybe.
If its like tensioners I have worked on on other bikes, it action is automatic to compensate for a stretching cam chain.
#36
Behind the bigger of the 2 bolts is a spring that pushes on the tension-er and adjusts it when the chain stretches. Some Folks have had to give the spring a little extra help by pushing with a screwdriver or similar object. I believe Lear Jet has dealt with it a bit.
#37
Gerry, I say another thread where someone mentioned that they had found pieces of the tensioner in the oil pump screen and it must have come apart and I was told I should check each time I change the oil. It seemed somewhat of a pain to remove the entire half of the engine to get to the tensioner and see that it is OK! I was looking at the diagrams on Bike Bandit that someone gave the link to and KAW has pretty much the same diagrams on their website but it looked like to me that the entire clutch and everything else had to be removed to get to the tensioner or to see that everything was OK. Someone was saying they had forced the spring to make it tighten and that may have gotten it to tight. I do not want to be taking half of the engine apart but it would be a good learning experience! Ever done this?
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