Well yeah, every bike is different, I meant in the case of the KLX S vs. SF... I thought the SF's suspension was significantly shorter / stiffer / etc than the dirt version, and that it would take more effort making an SF dirt-worthy than taking an S and making it more streetable.

 

I have a KLX 250SF and it is a lot of fun, but in its stock form you wouldn’t want to ride off road especially in wet conditions. Although I haven’t ridden a KLX 250S (seat height = 35.0 in), I would expect that the suspension is configured to absorb large bumps, whereas the 250SF has a very firm suspension (seat height = 33.9 in). From the Kawasaki web site

Part_____________KLX 250 SF________________KLX 250 S
Rake/Trail________25.5 deg / 2.9 in____________26.5 deg / 4.1 in
Front Suspension 43mm Inverted Cartridge fork with 16-Way Compression
Damping Adjustment.
Front Wheel Travel__9.1 in____________________10.0 in
Rear Suspension Uni-Trak with Adjustable Preload, 16-Way Compression
and Rebound Damping Adjustment.
Rear Wheel Travel___8.1 in____________________9.1 in
Front brake_________300 mm disc two-piston____250 mm disc two-piston
Rear Brake__________240 mm disc single piston___240 mm disc single piston
Front Tire___________IRC 110/70x17____________80/100x21
Rear Tire____________IRC 130/70x70____________100/100x18
Seat Height_________33.9 in___________________35.0 in
Ground Clearance_____8.9 in___________________11.2 in

I believe the only real difference between the two bikes is the front and rear rim size and the front brake rotor. I think the suspensions are just tuned differently. I have also investigated trying to get ***** for my 17” rims, I think I could get some for the rear, but no luck for the 17” front rim. Therefore I would have to buy at a minimum a 21” front rim and knobby set while using the brake rotor from the 17” front rim and purchasing a rear knobby. That would be the cheap way, but then I would have to adjust the suspension and here I am completely clueless. Plus I have already spent far too much on this toy. However If you were to put the same rims and tires from a 250 S on a 250 SF and modified the suspension settings appropriately, it should ride just like a 250 S.

So far the only thing I really hate is the seat. Team green must have a sadist for a seat designer. Not more than two years ago I was regularly riding by Giant carbon fiber road bicycle for 40 miles in about 3 hours. After the first week of riding my twins eventually forgave me especially when using the bike shorts. I’ve tried the bike shorts on this bike and it doesn’t help much. I doubt this seat would even be comfortable for a 14 year old who religiously performs their Susanne Sommers Thighmaster and Buttmaster video exercises. Therefore I put a sheepskin cover over it, and that helped a bit.

 

See that's my point... you can just throw a set of rims/tires/brakes on an S and make it a SM bike... but to take the SF into the dirt you have to redo the whole suspension. Its kinda moot since you have the bike, but anybody lurking the forum should know if they plan to do both, it'd be easier to get the S.

 

im 21, and have done multiple 200+ days, and even a few 300+, seat is one of my last concerns. my ears on the other hard, will ring all night after that.

 

There are tons of 17" DOT tires.

I have Metzler Tourances on my KLX650c, (17" rear).

The KLX650's more popular big brother, the KLR650 runs 17" rear too.

 

Hey man I have been wondering the same thing since i bought the bike. i wanna know if you can get some dirt tires that fit. and how it handles.././. How is it???

 

Hey thanks for the interesting specs.

I was, like, S what? Oh, it's an SM. Whay did they not call it an SM?

I thought one of these would make a great little commuter, because when I first bough my S, it had street tires on it, a 130 on the rear in fact. I rode it 1,320 miles from Michigan to Oklahoma with a wheel chair cushion draped over the KTM-ish seat (the KLR250 has a far better seat).

What I found during its street tire days was how agile these bikes are on the road with street tires, and that's in S form. The SF form is probably a hoot with very quick handling.

I notice the rake is even steeper on the SF. Not something I'd like off road because in my steering/handling experiments with three different lowering links on my 2006, I've found the bike needs a little more (not less) rake to steer as well as my previous KLR250 did (I know, that sounds contra-intuitive, but the KLR250 is a sleeper phenom). About a degree more in fact to handle very precisely without a vague feeling. I never did confirm exactly if the newer-model S has 27.5 degrees or 26.5 degrees rake. There was a change, but which way they went got confused in an article in DSN.

Not sure if this is clear to you all, but rake and trail are not a fixed spec but are in fact tied to a number of variables affecting the pitch of the bike (front - rear angle of the bike). Variables like tire size suspension compression, body positioning, even braking dynamics and wind load affect rake and trail.

What Kawie could have done is improve handling on the 2009+ S at more rake, 27.5 degrees, then use the same frame on the SF but with tire diameter and suspension changes produce a nominal rake of 25.5 degrees. Then again, they may be listing nominal rake as the same on both bikes, where in fact rake comes out different according to the application. Anyone know the confirmed rake of the `09+ S model?

 

Untrue! This will work just fine.

Maxxis 6006 front and rear on DRZ400SM.

 

how does that suzuki ride tho with such a fat front tire

 

I'm sure there would be differences but the S model is no motocrosser so the SM would be even less of one, hell I used to ride an old 72 Honda CL350 scrambler off road so it can be done and if it's what you want go for it.