Off-road Riding Technique
#1
Off-road Riding Technique
I know a few of the memeber of the this board have quite a bit of MX riding expereince in their past. THere's a couple things I want to learn. I have extensive MTB riding/racing experience, some road bicycle racing experience and a a couple thouseand miles on the race track with a sportbike. I'm no stranger to dragging a knee and sliding a 2 wheel machine around, but dirt bikes are a whole new world. As soon as the path becomes rutted or has lots of dips bumps, etc. pretty quickly I feel like the bike is getting away form me and I'm either too far back, or being tossed into the bars.
1) What is the correct body position when riding aggressively, going trough dips over logs or through whoops? I keep hearing about hte attack position.
2) What is the correct postion, technique when extending you foot out going through a corner. How do you touch down smoothly. When I do, my foot grabs the ground and gets yanked backwards. What's the correct way to do this?
1) What is the correct body position when riding aggressively, going trough dips over logs or through whoops? I keep hearing about hte attack position.
2) What is the correct postion, technique when extending you foot out going through a corner. How do you touch down smoothly. When I do, my foot grabs the ground and gets yanked backwards. What's the correct way to do this?
#2
RE: Off-road Riding Technique
1) Attack position: centered on bike, knees/legs sqeezing the bike, head over the bars(should be able to look down and see your number plate) but not too far forward, firm but relaxed grip on the bars, elbows up(not to far up looking like a chicken hawk), and you should be looking ahead like the way you look when driving a car.
2)Your foot is actually not supose to touch the ground at all. It has two purposes for being extended, the first reason is weight transfer, your transfering some of your weight to the front tire to help it track threw a corner. Second is incase your rear tire starts to slide out, you just plant and drag, or plant and lift back to the peg, it depends on the situation. the correct position for corners is, weight forward, ***** against tank, foot as close as you can to front wheel(not touching), knee slightly flexed foot at about fork shroud level(not touching the shroud), remember you only plant if you slide out. By getting that foot out there you are putting more weight on the front tire to track, as soon as you touch the ground with that foot you've lost your weight distrabution, and are more likely to slide you rear tire out. Also remember once you get half way into the turn look ahead out of the turn(as I am sure you are used to in sport bike racing).
Never fight a rut follow it unless that rut goes into trouble(cliffs, trees,ditch,lake,...... to get out of a rut stay in attack position pull up on the bars, get on the throttle, slow turn and, pop out(all basically at the same time). On extremely uneven terrain(whoops/stutters) get on the throttle pull up onthe bars push down on the pegs. you wan't your front tire up in the air or skimmming the tops you wan't your back wheel dropping in the low part. Its easier than it sounds. If you feel the bike getting away from you DO NOT get off the throttle wich will cause your front wheel to drop and you to get a cross bar tattoo on your neck. Just stay on the throttle and sqeeze the bike with your legs. If you start getting a little side ways in air just keep your weight in attack position and point your front wheel in your direction of travel if your not too far out your rear wheel will track and you will straiten out. Warning do not get your wieght back on the bike, if your rear tire hops the seat will hit you in the *** wich bounces you off the foot pegs and youll be riding superman up intell you hit the next bump theres tons of possibilitys from there all ending in pain.
In the above statement when I talk about stay on the throttle Im refering to a whole section of bumps not just one or two.
2)Your foot is actually not supose to touch the ground at all. It has two purposes for being extended, the first reason is weight transfer, your transfering some of your weight to the front tire to help it track threw a corner. Second is incase your rear tire starts to slide out, you just plant and drag, or plant and lift back to the peg, it depends on the situation. the correct position for corners is, weight forward, ***** against tank, foot as close as you can to front wheel(not touching), knee slightly flexed foot at about fork shroud level(not touching the shroud), remember you only plant if you slide out. By getting that foot out there you are putting more weight on the front tire to track, as soon as you touch the ground with that foot you've lost your weight distrabution, and are more likely to slide you rear tire out. Also remember once you get half way into the turn look ahead out of the turn(as I am sure you are used to in sport bike racing).
Never fight a rut follow it unless that rut goes into trouble(cliffs, trees,ditch,lake,...... to get out of a rut stay in attack position pull up on the bars, get on the throttle, slow turn and, pop out(all basically at the same time). On extremely uneven terrain(whoops/stutters) get on the throttle pull up onthe bars push down on the pegs. you wan't your front tire up in the air or skimmming the tops you wan't your back wheel dropping in the low part. Its easier than it sounds. If you feel the bike getting away from you DO NOT get off the throttle wich will cause your front wheel to drop and you to get a cross bar tattoo on your neck. Just stay on the throttle and sqeeze the bike with your legs. If you start getting a little side ways in air just keep your weight in attack position and point your front wheel in your direction of travel if your not too far out your rear wheel will track and you will straiten out. Warning do not get your wieght back on the bike, if your rear tire hops the seat will hit you in the *** wich bounces you off the foot pegs and youll be riding superman up intell you hit the next bump theres tons of possibilitys from there all ending in pain.
In the above statement when I talk about stay on the throttle Im refering to a whole section of bumps not just one or two.
#5
RE: Off-road Riding Technique
ORIGINAL: sdunne
Warning do not get your wieght back on the bike, if your rear tire hops the seat will hit you in the *** wich bounces you off the foot pegs and youll be riding superman up intell you hit the next bump theres tons of possibilitys from there all ending in pain.
Warning do not get your wieght back on the bike, if your rear tire hops the seat will hit you in the *** wich bounces you off the foot pegs and youll be riding superman up intell you hit the next bump theres tons of possibilitys from there all ending in pain.
#6
RE: Off-road Riding Technique
I need to tape the next AMA race so I can watch how they plant their foot in the corners when the bike starts to slide out. When I start to lowside, I push the bike back up, but the problem is that I'm traveling at 25mph so my leg gets yanked backwards.
I love how smooth and easily you can drift the rear end sideways exiting a corner and use the brake ot back it inot a corner. I was a little scared to ever try powerslides on my sportbike... intentionally that is, but I didn't mind letting the rear end slide around a little entering a corner. Not really backing it in, but the rear end was barely on the pavement and wagging side to side while I was hauling her down from around 140 to 80mph in short order.
I love how smooth and easily you can drift the rear end sideways exiting a corner and use the brake ot back it inot a corner. I was a little scared to ever try powerslides on my sportbike... intentionally that is, but I didn't mind letting the rear end slide around a little entering a corner. Not really backing it in, but the rear end was barely on the pavement and wagging side to side while I was hauling her down from around 140 to 80mph in short order.
#7
RE: Off-road Riding Technique
ORIGINAL: sdunne
He even has his leg too far out should be closer to the fork shroud. I'll give him a break though he's riding a big ugly Beamer!
He even has his leg too far out should be closer to the fork shroud. I'll give him a break though he's riding a big ugly Beamer!
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pie4foou
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02-02-2008 03:24 AM