not so common upgrades?

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  #41  
Old 07-11-2010, 01:08 PM
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efi conversion is a beotch. Its better to find something that has it and rip it off. As far as the tuning goes. Its a headache. You'll spend about a week understanding what each thing means and correlate them together. There is another option. It's called micro squirt. Goggle Microsquirt and its a standalone FI ECU and not expensive at all. But again, fitting temp sensors a high pressure fuel pump, and an injector, comes with a total of ALOT. And then creating a basemap to make your bike start. I forgot a wideband AFR meter at least $300.

I think timing is the easiest solution for these bikes and it can pack a wollop. That MSD controller I am supposed to get is only $288. Im gonna do it here some day. When i travel back home I go past summit racing and they have them in stock there.
 
  #42  
Old 07-11-2010, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by maninthesea
What I was thinking would be nice is I envisioned a plug and play product that would not need to be tuned like a carb since the ECU would be monitering & tuneing.
That would be nice. Its called a factory kawsaki klx250sf EFI. lol. You can easily do this yourself but the ecu can only monitor what you tell it. im definately going to get an EFI next time.
 
  #43  
Old 07-12-2010, 01:22 AM
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swO What I was trying to convey is if Ray brought a version of his to market it would allready be tuned for a KLX250 engine and should just need installed. He has done the hard work. But it looks like that wont be worth the production costs.
 
  #44  
Old 07-12-2010, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by maninthesea
swO What I was trying to convey is if Ray brought a version of his to market it would allready be tuned for a KLX250 engine and should just need installed. He has done the hard work. But it looks like that wont be worth the production costs.
Oh right on. yeah there would be two people to buy it. and 4230234902390 people to talk about buying it. First thing i was gonna do is turbo mine. I been studying draw through carburetors. Seems scray though.
 
  #45  
Old 07-12-2010, 12:45 PM
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Draw through carb isn't too bad. You just have to be really careful with the jetting.
 
  #46  
Old 07-13-2010, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
Draw through carb isn't too bad. You just have to be really careful with the jetting.
yeah i dont know how or what to be looking for. Like mid range boost without enough fuel but then if you dont boost and your mid range is drenched then you puddle. fire. then the puddling and stuff. draw through is scary.
 
  #47  
Old 07-13-2010, 01:17 PM
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It doesn't really work like that.
If you're on boost, the amount of draw through the carb will determine the amount of fuel.
 
  #48  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
Ron, I didn't have a T-Bob on my KLR650 but understood the benefit of it on the KLR. The wide temp swings on the KLR are fairly big in many riding situations. However, on the KLX and since having a digital temp guage on it, I'm somewhat amazed at how stable the temps run on the KLX. In the dead of winter to the heat of summer, the KLX almost always runs in a 20 degree spread. I'd bet the KLR's spread can be as high as 50-70 degrees. Not claiming any absolute knowledge on it, but the KLX doesn't seem to need this as much.
TNC, agreed that measuring at the exit, the KLX stay's nearer it's stat rating thanks to lots of radiator. But it still swings around - it depends on how fast the temp sender can respond to what's happening - lots of sensors, on purpose, have lots of lag which masks what's really going on. Thermocouples react immediately because of their lack of mass. Even with the Vapor, move that temp sensor so it measures the temps of coolant entering the engine and watch it then! That's always eye-opening. I'll post the data in a minute.
 

Last edited by Watt-man; 10-26-2010 at 07:28 PM.
  #49  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:30 PM
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Here is the data. As you'll see, it's even wilder than the 650. I set up a repeatable 25-minute ride from the house that included a relatively steady 40 mph ride for about 8 minutes, a deliberate stop of a little over 1 minute, some stop and go, then a return home with a section of stable 40 mph again. Temperatures were measured every 3 seconds on the inlet coolant line, as well as the exit from the engine - just like the 650 testing at the site in my signature below. The 25-minute ride length with 20 data points per minute is my present recording limit; 500 data points per thermocouple is all I can record - but it clearly was long enough to show the trends.

The first plot is "before" - the bike was stock with it's 160° F stat trying to regulate engine exit temperature at 160° F. To get a feel for the significance of the swings, 13 minutes into the test I saw coolant exiting the engine at 176°F... and six seconds later it was 133°F. Wow!

The second plot is "after" with the Thermo-Bob regulating the engine inlet temperature (this is a departure from the 650 design). Since we're shooting for an exit temperature of 190° F to 200° F, I use a 180° F 'stat to regulate the inlet temp at 180° F. This results in exit temps being stable at ~190° F. The largest swing noted in that test was from 195°F to 187°F over a 12 second timeframe in minute 18 of the test.

It took a number of revisions to the system layout and sizing to get the 'after' version to be this stable. By the time that final test was ready to be conducted, I couldn't get a 64° F morning to complete that final test so you'll notice the ambient temperature was about 10° warmer. Since the bike was able to hold the temps on the thermostat, this did not affect the results other than shortening the warm-up time by about a half-minute.
 
Attached Thumbnails not so common upgrades?-before.jpg   not so common upgrades?-after.jpg  
  #50  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:40 PM
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Hmmmmmm not so common mods....how about an 8 piece chicken box? LOL

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