OK, I've done the mods....well, all the wife will allow for now.
crank vent drilled
larger snorkel in airbox
125 main jet
40 pilot jet
slide drilled
mixture screw 2.5 turns out

Just got the full Muzzy today........wooo hooo (it rubs on the frame under the petcock area, buy I guess I can live with it)

It does seem more "spunky", and pulls better than stock, but only up to about 7 grand or there abouts. Then it kinda flattens out.
Do I need a bigger main? A 128 perhaps? Should I raise the needle by dropping the clip to the third notch?
Should I try to let more air into the box(maybe the double snorkel mod or drill some holes)?

Any ideas or is this about as good as it gets??

Thanks in advance

Brian

 

I had the same problem and made the same post, you're probably running a little rich try two turns out on the air fuel screw. Here's my thread from a little while ago.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_552..._/tm.htm#55213

 

But doesn't the air screw affect the mixture at idle only?

 

I don't think so, did ya read the thread, it worked for me. As soon as I get my K&N filter I plan on slightly twisting out the screw in small steps.......I think I might be a little lean now but I got no pops on decel and I got solid power at 7-8K.

 

Hmm...I went back and read the thread and I still don't understand how adjusting your pilot air mixture screw helped your top end. But then again, stranger things have happened.

With the setup you describe, the bike should pull hard to redline. I'd try going up one on the needle clip.

FWIW, I was helping do these mods to a friends bike today. His pilot air mixture screw was SEATED FROM THE FACTORY! WTF? We're starting it at 2.5 out (which is where mine is). We'll see.

One funny note: He ordered all his parts from BikeBandit months ago but never opened the box. The e-clip for the collar on the N1TC needle was correctly marked on the outside of the package but the package contained a key blank?!? We learned that AutoZone carries a variety pack of e-clips including the teeny tiny one needed for the needle.

We're also doing the IMS tank on his bike. We'll see if it's easier the second time around.

 

My screw was less than 1/4 turn out. I set it at 2 1/2 and it runs pretty rich. I need to pull the carb back off and I will take a turn off to put it at 1 1/2 out.

 

I agree, don't happen on outboards either.

 

My air screw was 1 turn out from the factory. I'm currently running with your exact settings, JD, and haven't noticed any issues. Altitude can affect carb performance - I'm close to sea level, FWIW.

 

you dont have to take the carb out to turn the a/f screw, just loosen the hose clamps on each side of the carb the inlet and outlet air tubes and spin it... works great, but u do have to take off the throttle cables.... i have done it a few times.....

 

Thanks for all the input guys, Looks like I've got some experimenting to do.
I'll post my findings.

Now, if this rain would just stop I could get to work..............

Again, thanks

Brian