Nikasil vs Steel Lined Cylinders
#1
Nikasil vs Steel Lined Cylinders
I would like to do the big bore upgrade this winter and im just trying to weigh the cost and reliability of the nikasil Kustom Kraft kit vs Bill Blue's Kit which is Steel Sleeve. What is the better of the two. I'm sure many would say the Nikasil is a better route but I would like to hear what everyone thinks on this. Does the Nikasil last longer compared to the Steel? Is better heat dissapation? Ive read an article that Nikasil reacts with sulfur found in lower grade gasoline causing damage to the top of the bore resulting in corrosion, compression loss. Could this be a possibility with Kustom Kraft's cylinder. Please some constructive opinions, professional knowledge would be helpful.
#2
this is like what oil to use- its been talked about a lot-. I have a Bill Blue 331- 1000+ miles it is doing great!
Most bikes and most cars have steel liners- so it is not like it is something new. I got Bill's because of price- but now that I have it, I would do it again for the quality.
For the money you save get a pumper carb.
Most bikes and most cars have steel liners- so it is not like it is something new. I got Bill's because of price- but now that I have it, I would do it again for the quality.
For the money you save get a pumper carb.
#5
Yes its lighter, wears longer, & conducts heat better. Yes it is how stock KLXs are. All outside factors being equal I'd take a coated bore for all the aboove reasons. Still, nothing wrong with a steel liner, been doing it that way forever--don't let it stand in your way, especially on a play bike like this.
#6
The main reason for a NIK cylinder vs steel is to properly rebuild the top end of an engine you would need to bore it each time and get a bigger piston. With a NIK cylinder all you have to do is hone it to put the cross hatch in it and just purchase a slightly, what they call, "oversized" piston. So, it would be marked usually A,B,C, or D. Usually "D" was the end of the line. After that you needed a new cylinder. Thats alot of rebuilds though. Espeically for a four stroke. Where with the steel you can replace the sleeve after so many bores.
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VAPIR NO2
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VAPIR NO2
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:53 AM.
#7
I don't think you can go wrong with either one. You get a really big 'bang for the buck' with the Bill Blue 331 steel sleeve in the stock cylinder. Nikasil is more expensive, but offers weight, thermal transfer and wear advantages.
The Nikasil will give you longer life as long as you don't totally abuse your machine. Damage to a Nikasil coating is much more costly to repair if there is chipping, because you have remove the old stuff and re-coat wheras you just overbore a steel sleeve.
+1 on what KLXer said though. This is basically a play bike, so unless you plan on keeping it for eternity and rely on it as an daily commuter, I really wouldn't worry about going either way.
The Nikasil will give you longer life as long as you don't totally abuse your machine. Damage to a Nikasil coating is much more costly to repair if there is chipping, because you have remove the old stuff and re-coat wheras you just overbore a steel sleeve.
+1 on what KLXer said though. This is basically a play bike, so unless you plan on keeping it for eternity and rely on it as an daily commuter, I really wouldn't worry about going either way.
#8
The weight difference between Nikisil and steel can be one week of dieting or a good dump. Not all that much difference to most riders. The simplicity and durability are the advantages of the Bill Blue kit. There are many who will certainly swear by it.
Nikisil in the auto industry has been a flop. The Vega 140 4 cyl had it first, and most of them went to the junk yard in short order with cylinder scoring. The rest took a steel sleeve re-bore.
Nikisil in the auto industry has been a flop. The Vega 140 4 cyl had it first, and most of them went to the junk yard in short order with cylinder scoring. The rest took a steel sleeve re-bore.
Last edited by MSGT-R; 10-24-2008 at 02:30 PM.