New suspension is different
#11
Today I tightened the rear spring down some more to raise the sag. Holy crap that bouncyness went away. Where i was working on it, I was somewhere where I couldn't access any info about sag measurements so I'll have to set the sag right some other time. I had to tighten it down to clear the airbox boot because I was changing main jets again. That made a HUGE difference. I just ripped it up in the woods pretty hard and there were 2 times I hit patches of sugar sand hidden under oak leaves and normally when I hit those the front wheel feels like it folds up under my feet and I end up doing a ballet dance into the bushes or doing a face-plant onto the forest floor. I should have bitten the dirt and I stayed up and recovered in control quickly because of this suspension upgrade. Now I'm happy with my investment in the suspension stuff.
#13
Hey there FD...good to hear another success.
My forks are in the shop for a valve & seal job. Fork and rear springs were upped earlier for a very noticeable improvement, but the front was still jabbing.
I think the rear sag setting is around 90 to 100 mm. that's where I set mine after the new rear spring and it's much better. Can anyone confirm this setting?
My forks are in the shop for a valve & seal job. Fork and rear springs were upped earlier for a very noticeable improvement, but the front was still jabbing.
I think the rear sag setting is around 90 to 100 mm. that's where I set mine after the new rear spring and it's much better. Can anyone confirm this setting?
#14
General guideline for setting the rear sag WITH THE CORRECT SPRINGS is 1/3 of the total travel with the rider on the bike in his/her normal riding position.
For the forks, it's 1/4 the total travel.
Ride on
Brewster
For the forks, it's 1/4 the total travel.
Ride on
Brewster
#16
Depending on terrain, I go from 90-100mm or sag. If I know there is tight woods in store, I'll go for less sag for better turning and adjust accordingly. Dual sports, I'll go for 100mm to relax the handling. I use maybe a 5-6 click range going from soft to hard terrain on the adjusters. A good suspension setup really is something most take for granted...you never know what you're missing 'til you upgrade and then you get used to a good handling bike.
#17
See I had the rear sag set so it responds and turns quickly in tight stuff in the woods. It's about 1/3 the travel with me on it. I found out last weekend that can be bad when riding at high speeds on sugar sand roads for half a day. I couldn't sit back and let the front float enough. It wants to carve and plow. But on normal terrain, it'll get awesome traction on anything and turns on a dime. It's a trade off I guess. I was also running almost 20 psi in the front to save on gas because we were 50 miles of 2nd gear between gas stops and we have that dinky little tank. That's probably what did it more than anything. And I don't think that ED03 tire is the best for sand anyway.
Anyway, about the new valving. I found that the new valving does nothing for 95% of the riding I do. I was starting to think I could have spent the $180 more wisely. Mostly I ride on dirt trails in the woods that are pretty smooth. Now this last weekend I did the spring Wabeno ride. We did 144 miles in a day. Lots of single and 2 track. My forks are revalved but not my shock. Now I went over enough rough stuff where I really could feel the difference. The front always had traction and smooth action over sharp bumps, especially a fast series of sharp bumps, and even a fast series of sharp bumps going around a corner up and down steep hills. In those instances, the back felt like it was being hit with a sledge and wanted to skip. I think this winter I'll revalve the shock too.
Anyway, about the new valving. I found that the new valving does nothing for 95% of the riding I do. I was starting to think I could have spent the $180 more wisely. Mostly I ride on dirt trails in the woods that are pretty smooth. Now this last weekend I did the spring Wabeno ride. We did 144 miles in a day. Lots of single and 2 track. My forks are revalved but not my shock. Now I went over enough rough stuff where I really could feel the difference. The front always had traction and smooth action over sharp bumps, especially a fast series of sharp bumps, and even a fast series of sharp bumps going around a corner up and down steep hills. In those instances, the back felt like it was being hit with a sledge and wanted to skip. I think this winter I'll revalve the shock too.
#18
Wasn't Wabeno fun??? I almost put it up on the board here, but never got around to it. Too bad, I would have liked to say high at least. I saw quite a few KLX's there, one of them must have been yours. I will catch you next time if you plan on going to the big woods ride in the fall. My buds and I will be there for sure.
Dan
Dan
Last edited by dan888; 06-17-2011 at 03:45 AM.
#20
See I had the rear sag set so it responds and turns quickly in tight stuff in the woods. It's about 1/3 the travel with me on it. I found out last weekend that can be bad when riding at high speeds on sugar sand roads for half a day. I couldn't sit back and let the front float enough. It wants to carve and plow. But on normal terrain, it'll get awesome traction on anything and turns on a dime. It's a trade off I guess. I was also running almost 20 psi in the front to save on gas because we were 50 miles of 2nd gear between gas stops and we have that dinky little tank. That's probably what did it more than anything. And I don't think that ED03 tire is the best for sand anyway.
Anyway, about the new valving. I found that the new valving does nothing for 95% of the riding I do. I was starting to think I could have spent the $180 more wisely. Mostly I ride on dirt trails in the woods that are pretty smooth. Now this last weekend I did the spring Wabeno ride. We did 144 miles in a day. Lots of single and 2 track. My forks are revalved but not my shock. Now I went over enough rough stuff where I really could feel the difference. The front always had traction and smooth action over sharp bumps, especially a fast series of sharp bumps, and even a fast series of sharp bumps going around a corner up and down steep hills. In those instances, the back felt like it was being hit with a sledge and wanted to skip. I think this winter I'll revalve the shock too.
Anyway, about the new valving. I found that the new valving does nothing for 95% of the riding I do. I was starting to think I could have spent the $180 more wisely. Mostly I ride on dirt trails in the woods that are pretty smooth. Now this last weekend I did the spring Wabeno ride. We did 144 miles in a day. Lots of single and 2 track. My forks are revalved but not my shock. Now I went over enough rough stuff where I really could feel the difference. The front always had traction and smooth action over sharp bumps, especially a fast series of sharp bumps, and even a fast series of sharp bumps going around a corner up and down steep hills. In those instances, the back felt like it was being hit with a sledge and wanted to skip. I think this winter I'll revalve the shock too.