A new post "how to /s p i c e/ your klx up"
#12
Well - living in Denmark makes me a european - and that means FI on my '09 KLX ;o)
My 5th bike - and the first one that has NO flat spots !
I love FI - just having made the derestriction-trick after some 3.300 km's I must say that it now runs as it should from the factory ;o)
I'm not gonna screw around with another pipe - the stock (w/cat) performs quite OK. Making the bike louder would ruin the "stealth" of the bike - thus disabling me from sneaking around in places, where I'm not really allowed to drive !
But mods, You wrote; well - I thought I needed a windshield. Could'nt find any, so I made one. Have a few pics of the "fabrication" if anyone is interested.
Can't stand riding with a back-pack, so I needed to mount a top-box.
That takes a rack - or does it ? After some speculation and picking the rear of the bike apart I could see that all it takes is drilling 2 holes in the rear fender to make 4 anchor-points for mounting the base-plate on risers (made from alloy tubing) and some stainless bolts nuts. Got pics of that project, too.
Having bought o whole meter of that alloy tube made med wonder what to use the rest for - and beeing pretty annoyed with the RAM-mount for my Garmin I dreamt up something to use the tube for; a high-mount for the Garmin.
By now the mount is made from 2 tubes, but it needs a 3rd tube for stability.
The 3rd has to go forward to be practical, as I have a 1½" riser-kit on the handelbar. And with the 2 tubes it's allready a task to get the ignintion key in the ignition - I don't need the 3rd pipe in that area too ;o)
But the 3rd pipe is not gonna be done today; we have rain and sleuth here right now, so taking the bike more or less apart on the street (have no garage) is no picknick. Besides I have to doo some shopping for my birthday-party tomorrow )
Oh - btw - changed the silly, too short side-mirrors and slabbed on heated grips. Wonder why it took me 4 bikes and 13 years to realize that heated grips is a must ;o)
And a picture of my bike - with luggage ;o)
My 5th bike - and the first one that has NO flat spots !
I love FI - just having made the derestriction-trick after some 3.300 km's I must say that it now runs as it should from the factory ;o)
I'm not gonna screw around with another pipe - the stock (w/cat) performs quite OK. Making the bike louder would ruin the "stealth" of the bike - thus disabling me from sneaking around in places, where I'm not really allowed to drive !
But mods, You wrote; well - I thought I needed a windshield. Could'nt find any, so I made one. Have a few pics of the "fabrication" if anyone is interested.
Can't stand riding with a back-pack, so I needed to mount a top-box.
That takes a rack - or does it ? After some speculation and picking the rear of the bike apart I could see that all it takes is drilling 2 holes in the rear fender to make 4 anchor-points for mounting the base-plate on risers (made from alloy tubing) and some stainless bolts nuts. Got pics of that project, too.
Having bought o whole meter of that alloy tube made med wonder what to use the rest for - and beeing pretty annoyed with the RAM-mount for my Garmin I dreamt up something to use the tube for; a high-mount for the Garmin.
By now the mount is made from 2 tubes, but it needs a 3rd tube for stability.
The 3rd has to go forward to be practical, as I have a 1½" riser-kit on the handelbar. And with the 2 tubes it's allready a task to get the ignintion key in the ignition - I don't need the 3rd pipe in that area too ;o)
But the 3rd pipe is not gonna be done today; we have rain and sleuth here right now, so taking the bike more or less apart on the street (have no garage) is no picknick. Besides I have to doo some shopping for my birthday-party tomorrow )
Oh - btw - changed the silly, too short side-mirrors and slabbed on heated grips. Wonder why it took me 4 bikes and 13 years to realize that heated grips is a must ;o)
And a picture of my bike - with luggage ;o)
#13
Jesper,
You should keep an eyeball on the cross member that you top box is bolted to as if there is any flex from bumps etc, it will break. I needed to replace the cross member on mine with heavier gauge metal when I mounted my rear rack.
You should keep an eyeball on the cross member that you top box is bolted to as if there is any flex from bumps etc, it will break. I needed to replace the cross member on mine with heavier gauge metal when I mounted my rear rack.
#14
#16
Thanks Redpillar - but luckily I read about that problem before I mounted the baseplate.
And I've utilized 2 crossmembers as anchor points for it; the front one that the original toolpouch is bolted to and the one behind it, where the rear fender is bolted to from underneath.
This "only" took a deep breath as I had to drill 2 large holes in the rear fender in order to bolt the 2 bars in the picture to. The holes are drilled from beneath through the 2 bolts that are mounted on the black part of the rear fender. I then bolted the rear of the bars from the upper side, thus first bolting the bars to the rear fender, mounting the fender and theese 2 bolts go down through the rear crossmember and and secure them with nuts from the underside. Front holes you just put the bolts through from the top at secure them with nuts on the underside.
May sound confusing - but pick the rear of your bike apart and its pretty straight forward - once you get the idea ;o)
The box is mostly used for the little things, you can't doo without; lock, tool-kit, rain gear and a little shopping - and almost only on paved roads.
Should I do extended gravel etc I would really consider leaving the box at home to avoid overloading the rear sub-frame ;o)
First pic is from above: 4 large holes mark the mounting points on the crossmembers:
Second pic is the bars readily mounted - base plate to be screwed on top:
And I've utilized 2 crossmembers as anchor points for it; the front one that the original toolpouch is bolted to and the one behind it, where the rear fender is bolted to from underneath.
This "only" took a deep breath as I had to drill 2 large holes in the rear fender in order to bolt the 2 bars in the picture to. The holes are drilled from beneath through the 2 bolts that are mounted on the black part of the rear fender. I then bolted the rear of the bars from the upper side, thus first bolting the bars to the rear fender, mounting the fender and theese 2 bolts go down through the rear crossmember and and secure them with nuts from the underside. Front holes you just put the bolts through from the top at secure them with nuts on the underside.
May sound confusing - but pick the rear of your bike apart and its pretty straight forward - once you get the idea ;o)
The box is mostly used for the little things, you can't doo without; lock, tool-kit, rain gear and a little shopping - and almost only on paved roads.
Should I do extended gravel etc I would really consider leaving the box at home to avoid overloading the rear sub-frame ;o)
First pic is from above: 4 large holes mark the mounting points on the crossmembers:
Second pic is the bars readily mounted - base plate to be screwed on top:
#20
Tusk ones from Rocky Mtn ATV work pretty well.