Just bought myself a new 09 for Christmas and have several questions for you guys. The break-in calls for 1000k and under 4k rev. What is more realistic? I have been shifting closer to 5k. Cold start-up really takes a lot of cranking (at 45-50 degrees) even with choke pulled is this common. Should I wait till after break-in to do any mods? Not planning too much just jetting, exhaust, gear change, airbox. I was planning getting a klx300 header and FMH slip-on...does this sound right? What year header?. What gear is common, nothing severe. Will I lose bottom end? What the heck is "turn signal tuck"? Yes I will cut off excess rear fender. What is a common front or rear tire option and will I suffer road use? These stock tires seem pretty bad off road. What parts shop (on line) is the cheapest or most common?

Thanks, any help would be great.
Mark

 

Hey Mark Welcome to KF,, Congrats on the new toy.. First I would wait till after break in to do any mods, second as some others would say and I followed the same procedure, just ride it and fluxuate the rpms,, just dont hold them at one spot for a period of time prior to break in.. 3rd, I havent got to do my pipe yet, but what I have done was the jet kit and a front sprocket (13t) but some would rather go up in the rear rather than down on the front, Its pretty much about money, going down on the front lowers the gearing some and is alot cheaper than going up teeth on the rear, witch also lowers your gearing.. Alot of other people have done the KLX300 header as well, Im not sure what years would work but im sure most, but hopefully someone will be able to chime in on a more specific answer. I just saw a KLX300 header on ebay this morning. Plz cut off the rear fender haah thats what I did,, some have used a really really sharp looking eliminator for a DRZ that looks pretty badazz. The turn signal tuck is I beilive (correct me if im wrong guys) is pretty much making them not as noticable as you can and still be legal.... I shop at Rockymountainatv.com and charrapral.com, IMS.com , bike bandit, and a few others.. I havent changed my tires yet but Im looking for something a bit more beefy anywayz. So Im not a total help but maybe I did help a lil. afterall im just a burnout haha,, once agian Welcome to KF

 

Welcome to the forums there msaint. Like has been mentioned a lot here just vary the rpm's and make sure to include some good mid range back pressure using the gears. Ride it like you stole it? Don't listen to that advice unless they will guarantee to fix broken parts. Have fun and again welcome.

 

Best bet is to vary the engine speed. If you're cruising down the road, don't keep it at the same RPM. Rev it up pretty good and then let it come down. I wouldn't flog on it, but definately run it up pretty good a few times.

Anything less than 60 and my bike MUST be choked to start and idle until it gets a little heat. And if it doesn't fire or stay running after the first time, it'll be a REAL pita to get going again. I usually pull the choke all the way to get it started, then I just hold it out and try to feather it, bringing it in until I feel it about to die. I'm personally not a fan of leaving the choke out and revving the **** out of the motor while its cold with no oil in the top-end.

You got me there. I think I rejetted after like 1400 miles (I think...) I know it was only a couple months after I got it. I wouldn't think it would be a problem, since the bike is stupid-lean from the factory. IDK about the rest of that, the other experts will tell you better.

I went up in the rear as opposed to smaller in the front, for gearing. You can prematurely wear your chain by going down in the front. And don't listen to the "expert" here that says go down in the front and/or up in the rear to keep the stock chain. The stock chain is a big, stinking, pile of cow-dung. Mine was hammered a few thousand miles in. If you're going to drop money on any sprocket combo, get a real chain. I went with a 47-tooth rear and maintained stock size in the front (14-tooth). Much better offroad, but not as buzzy as a 13/45 combination. But like I said, opinions vary on all this. Alotta guys claim the smaller front sprocket is OK, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

This is where you pull in the turn signals (at least the rear since they stick out so far) to keep from breaking them. I did it to my bike, I think I'm the only '09 with the stock signals actually tucked. Some guys have replaced them with stick-ons, but I'm poor, and free = better. Search my threads and find mine, I wrote pretty detailed instructions how I did mine, hopefully it can give you some ideas.

The stock tires BLOW off-road. The Dunlop 606 is a very good option, I'm running it right now and I love it. Grips great in the dirt (at least for my ability) and its not unpredictable on the road. Yes it gives up some streetability vs. stock, but the better grip in the dirt makes it worh it.

I order everything through RockyMountain ATV.

You are welcome! Welcome to KF! I hope my info was useful, and as a fellow '09 owner, THUMBS UP

 

I just got mine and there is no way I could keep it under 4000 rpm the first day let alone 1000 miles lol. I ride it like normal and try and vary the speed.

Cold starting is terrible, putting your hand over the exhaust works pretty well for me.

Can't tell you anything about mods, I plan on keeping mine mostly stock.

 

Welcome to the forum! Cliffsta pretty much got your ?'s answered? You can search for KLX mods. Alot of reading cause these topics have been well covered. Lots of good info here at KF. Have fun with your new bike!

 

After I jetted mine and changed the A/F screw to 2.5 turns out, I only have to put the choke on for a minute to get it started. After it starts, I turn up the idle a quarter turn and turn off the choke. This works even when it is in the 30's outside. Once it warms up as I am riding, I return the idle to normal.

 

I actually took mine to the dealership and had the mechanic ride it and he agreed that 4000rpm is too low and that 5000 was more realistic. I've got 675 miles on mine now and just had the oil changed at 600. I still am keeping it around the 5000-6000rpm range just to be safe. I plan on getting a FMF q4 series exhaust and a FMF jet kit for mine but am going to let the dealership do it so as not to possibly void any warranty. They suggested waiting till its at least 60 degrees to this fore it's easier to get the carb. dialed in better. def. cut the rear fender, mines shorter and have removed all reflectors.
Welcome to the KLX joy and the forum!

 

I got mine mid October. You can see my mods. I keep it under 4000 rpm for the first 50 miles. Then varies the RPM to a max 7000 rpm for the next 25 miles. Then I rode it like I stole it!!!

I dont know how many miles I have on it now, I always ride in trip mode for fuel tracking... I'd guess 600 miles. It's definatily my toy, not my transportation

I starting mod.'ing right away. Jetting, then exhuast, then airbox, then sprocket.
I have the .03" spacer under the Stock needle still, but I'll try the NC1T and drill the Slide next time I am in the mood to pull the carb again.

Have Fun!
and welcome to the Forum!
SlapDrum

 

just to be clear here, this "expert" needs to correct someone's typo and potential problem for the OP: the needle is N1TC, NOT the NC1T.
Guess that's why I'm referred to as the expert around here by newbies. lol