OMG, my KLX is gonna be FAST!

I've heard model airplane glue is the best but I'm a little worried about my limited number of brain cells. I might just stick to beer, but an extra 1 or 2. Like shimming the needle, it can't hurt, right?

I'm hoping I can get time tomorrow to tear into it and get it sorted. We've still got some nice weather ahead so I want to ride the little bugger.

 

Good luck.. Call me if you need coaching.. I'm in the book..

lol.. Remember when we used phone books...?

 

OK, I cleaned the carb, paying strict attention to pilot screw, pilot jet, main jet, MAJ, PAJ + the float system, and any other hole, orifice, passageway, etc. I could find. I did this twice, using almost a whole can of carb cleaner. The previous owner or bike shop had been in there before as the pilot screw plug was already drilled out and the screw backed way out. I gently seated it and backed it out 2.5 turns.

Put it all back together and the bike fired right up on choke, which I shut off immediately due to the high revs on choke. It ran and idled fine without choke. Let it warm up for approx. 5 minutes. It would rev up fine and seemed to be running well. So I attempted to take it for a ride. As soon as I tried to let the clutch out with a normal amount of throttle it bogged and died. Difficult to re-start but eventually did. Same thing... bog and die.

To me it feels like the bike is not getting gas or like it's running out of gas. Vapor lock? What would cause that?

I took the tank off again and opened the petcock and gas is flowing out.

This is exactly how it ran before I cleaned the carb.

Any ideas?

 

Is the kick stand up or down..?

Is the fuel filter clean ? Better take the entire fuel line off the carb, put it on the tank, and check for full flow.. Any issues will be due to the fuel filter - once you find it, you'll need to clean it.
After that, it's gotta be float system and float setting.

 

Kick stand is up. If it was down it would shut off immediately. Mine bogs, like it's not getting fuel... and then it dies.

I searched this forum and found this re fuel filter:

...inside the carb gas inlet. A little cone that fits right inside. If you don't take the fuel line off you'd never know it was there.

Is that what you're referring to or is there a filter within the petcock?

Something I just thought of, on the right side of the bike, the carb has a clear vent hose like the pink one in this picture:

2010 KLX250S carb problems - Kawasaki Forums

Mine is very short, (approx. 2-3"). It actually looks like it burned off at one point. Could that possibly effect things negatively or am I searching for an easy answer?

Re float level. Honestly, I tried to measure them and depending on where they "fell" I got multiple measurements. I also didn't know how to change the setting so, figuring it started OK and wasn't overflowing fuel, I'd be OK with where they were. It's the only shortcut I took. I hope it's not the problem but I realize now it could be.

Thanks for all your help on this Klxster.

 

All hoses must be routed and installed correctly. The Fuel filter must be present and clean, or replaced with a larger inline filter.

Use the clear tube method to check float level. Particulars of the method are in here,,

This is simply more of what is expected out of anyone that buys a used non/barely functional KLX - you keep learning and then working thru problems until none remain.

For future member reference, if it was known at the start of this thread that carb hoses were a problem, researching proper routings and fixing them would have been, and is, job #1.

 

Didn't know the vent hose was shortened until I got into it but I'll replace it ASAP. If that magically cures the problem I obviously won't go further, but...

... since it's rarely that easy, I'll move onto the float level. Did a search but couldn't find the "clear tube method". However I re-read the service manual and I now understand the correct way to measure and adjust the float level.

I re-read your CVK34 list of issues and the diaphragm fitting stood out as a potential for what's causing the kind of issues I'm having. Since I'll have the carb off again, I'll check the fit. I was careful when I put it together and I'm sure the slide and spring are in correctly but I'm not sure I had metal to metal contact when I put the cap on. My garage heat was set at 60F. Maybe a bit cool so maybe I need to use the warm water method.

 

The float level check is in here, complete with pictures.

With carb installed - and indexed correctly (not tilted) , and bike balanced up (off of the kick stand) - put a clear tube on the bowl drain, open the drain, hold tube next to carb body at the bowl-to-carb point. Fuel level in the tube should be just above the mating point between the bowl casting and the carb body..

If hoses are not functional, venting functions may be impaired - causing all sorts of hell..

Your ability to properly describe all observations is key to effective remedies. From post #13, I assumed the bike revs quickly and correctly to near redline, when warmed up and on the kickstand....?

 

From post #13, I assumed the bike revs quickly and correctly to near redline, when warmed up and on the kickstand....?

Correct. Only when I attempted to ride it did the bogging/dying happen. So fine in neutral, not OK under load.

 

Ok, obviously every single component of the ignition system could be suspect.

But, at this point, exhaust possible carb issues before starting in on the ignition system .. Float level must be checked and verified - non running and running checks are needed on the float level.

You should have replaced the spark plug DAY 1.. Fuel filter (and fuel flow) , and a new Spark plug should be done before anything else, on a non/badly running used bike purchase..