I just worked out that you are the Mr Kreiger. Nice product, I love it. I removed the centre bolt and spring and removed the auto tensioner. Measured the distance that the original was sticking out. Set the same distance on the Kreiger tensioner and installed it. started the engine adjusted until there was only a slight tick and locked in place. Tick when away when warmed up, no more noise at 5K rpm. It didn't take long and if the cam chain master says it's virtually perfect, I'm happy with that.

I inspected the auto tensioner that I removed and there was no damage to the teeth. The only thing I can come up with is that the space between the teeth is large so the cam chain needs to be mega loose before it steps to the next tooth. I could have cheated and slipped it up to the next tooth but that is only temporary fixing the problem.

My jet kit arrived yesterday, so today is strip the carby day. I have never heard of the dial-a-jet product but it is getting great reviews. I doubt I would have been able to get it locally, I had to get the jet kit from the US. The previous owner only put about 200kms on in 2 years so it's probably a good idea to pull them apart and check anyway.

 

Results even vary on the same bike on different dynos and manufacturer hp claims are only a loose guide at best. The only differences between Aussie bikes and US bikes is that the pilot screw is turned out more and the US uses a 118 main jet instead of a 132.

After looking at your dyno charts and the AFR's you are pulling and only having the DJ132 as the biggest main jet in the kit, I might whack that in and leave the lid on for now and see how that goes.

 

Yep, use the DJ132 for now - but pull the snorkel.. If you want to keep the quiet insert, go 3N on the needle(3rd notch down), if you're gonna loose the quiet tip, then you are free to use 4N or even the bottom notch (5N)..

Your bike will respond to jetting very similar to my DGR charts and dyno tuning..The DGR midpipe is practically identical to your Delkevic..

About the airbox lid - if you remove the quiet tip, go DJ132/4N or even 5N, you will be lean but still safe with that Delkevic slipon (See my chart listing for the DGR with DJ132/4N). And you'll unleash a little of the big TRQ ramp-up you see in my wheelie video(also on my signature line..) as that video was shot when I was running 132/4N..

Also, since you are not running the MCM (Marcelino Cam Mod), your midrange will not be quite as lean as my bike - so you'll be a little richer in the midrange(4k-7k RPM) than the DGR 132/4N chart.. Remember that all my charts are using a lidless airbox with the MCM..

 

Jetting done. I am running DJ132, 3N (didn't see your post before completion), stock pilot 3 turns out, quiet insert removed and snorkel (but lid still on). Doesn't feel anymore powerful but the smoothness is drastically noticeable. Also noticeable is the idle is much more stable (used to increase with temperature) and there is minimal poping on decel. I am happy with this setup for now. As the mid pipe has a bung for an O2 sensor I am very tempted to put one in there and monitor the AFR's in real time.

Also not going to do the MCM as I will be going to put a 351 kit through it in about 12 months time and not to sure if there is enough clearance between piston and valve with this kit.

The Kouba idle mixture screw is useless on Aussie models unless you remove the coolant hoses going into the carb. I will be doing that soon, I really don't think carb icing is a problem where I live and considering is isn't offered on US models, I doubt it will be missed.

On carb dissemble, I noticed that there are 2 scratches down the throat of the carb, there were some spring washers missing from the float bowl and the main jet was labelled 140. Some one has been here before!!! Would the scratches make much difference, I doubt it? The main jet didn't look like a DJ jet so I assume it could be a Kawasaki part? There is also the numbers 40 and 14 stamped on it. It does appear to be a step higher than the DJ132 so possibly a DJ136 equivalent? Funnily enough the needle wasn't modified and the pilot screw was only 2 turns from fully seated.

 

The damage is hard to see since it is only rounding of a tooth or two and the pawl. It shows as a shiny top of one or two teeth and a pattern where the ratchet is running back in after being pushed back about 4-5 teeth. The other clear evidence is the underside opposite the ratchet plunger teeth. It will show the metal polished over 1/4-1/2 inch, the distance the plunger is pushed in and then sliding back out. I've seen it on my own parts, a tensioner I bought to use as a model for my ZX6 kit, and a Suzuki GSX1250 I had sent to me to model that kit.

Oh, yes I am Mr. Krieger making the tensioners. I modeled the prototype part, once I know it's right start having them rough cut for me here in Ohio, then do the finish work and hardware, gaskets were drawn up and laser cut for me here too. Fun stuff. I love doing new stuff. The ones now are a Husky TE310 prototype tomorrow and in a week or two a Suzuki GSX1000/1100 prototype. Kind of exciting to see if they work right first time out. The KLX did thanks to some good help from another rider here - TNC.

 

Ok. About the only thing you can do with your current jet selection is to go 4N and pull the lid. I would expect you to see a noticeable power increase 5k - 9k. To unlock max power, you'll need to order a DJ140 main jet.

 

I managed to relocate and remove some of the coolant hoses going to the carb. Now I get full access to the Kouba screw and can turn it through full range of motion. As I tick off my list of stuff to do, I've found something else, My stock bars are bent so the Pro Taper bar I have lying around is going on tomorrow.

 

Now I've removed those troublesome coolant hoses from the carb, it'll be a piece of cake to remove the carby now. I'll give the 4N a go and pull the lid, tomorrow morning. I know that I can get to it from the top with out removing the carb, but knowing my luck, I'll drop bits and never find them again.

 

Ok, so final jetting for now is DJ132 main, DJ needle 4th clip down, stock pilot jet with screw 2.5 turns from fully seated and lid off.

Now I'll admit that I was a little skeptical about the lid off thing, but it has made a difference. Much more rideable and more torque low down. Haven't done a high speed run yet. Maybe soon, I'll get it on a dyno just to see what the AFR's are doing, but it feels nice for now.

 

I like the way you "roll" with wanting your own Dyno data.. Hopefully you can get a "deal" from a dyno shop. They usually charge way too much for the 15 minutes it takes to dyno a bike. If you can't find a shop willing to deal, why not get to know your new power for a while, then go DJ140/2N, enjoy the increase the 140 setup gives you, then dyno test.. The 140 setup shows an additional 2.25 hp over 132/4N with AFR's in the upper range staying at 13:1 - So, if your Oz gas causes additional richness - perhaps knocking the top end down to 12.5 to 12.8 - you stand to gain more power than my bike...