Found an 09 that was bought in July of 08. The lady put 45 miles on it, before deciding it was just too tall for her. They put a new battery in it, and it started up on the second turn-over of the engine. Bought it for half price of list.

Both tubes flatted on me...the front made it 2 miles (I then rode it flat 5 miles to my local tire shop). The rear flatted the next day. Both tires dry-rotted at the valve stem. Oh, well, now I have a Dunlop 606 on the rear...good for the desert sand and trails I ride on.

Already put Cycras and a new Aluminum bar on it, Radiator guards, heavy duty skid plate (wow, does this thing ever reflect the engine noise up to me!), got the Dyna Jet Kit ready to put in when my HMF Quiet Core slip-on arrives. Sounds like it might be best to drill the slide to 7/64 and use the stock spring, 125 main, shim the needle to whatever the directions say, and a 38 pilot. I'm mostly at about 2250 feet, with forays up to 6-7000.

It now has about 200 miles on it, and is running surprisingly perfect.

My question is...can I rotate the carb enough to take out the slide and jets without removing the entire thing? I can do that on my KLR650, but, this looks a bit tighter. If there's a trick to be learned about this, I'd appreciate a head's up!

Thanks! Love this little thumper so far!

 

You may have to pull it the first time. The cap over the mixture screw needs to be drilled and levered out, not sure if there is room to do that while still in the bike. some good pics here http://hmfracing.com/forums/showthre...t=1617&page=2A trick to make future work easier is to replace the philips head screws on the bowl with stainless allen bolts. Easier to get a ball head allen wrench in there later when you spin the carb in the boots and don't quite have a straight shot for the screwdriver. The Kouba mixture screw makes mixture adjustments much easier too. http://www.koubalink.com/fuelscrew.html
Dan

 

Congrats on the new ride, sounds like you got a smokin' deal!

Hard to understand the tire issues, was the bike stored outside in the sun the whole time the lady owned it?

 

+1 on wierd tire issues. My bike is an 07, original tires/tubes, no issues at all. Great value for the price though!

I find pulling the carb makes it easier to work on. Years of working on cars I've decided it's easier and usually faster to take enough apart to make access good.

If you're enjoying it now, you'll love it broken in. after 800 or so mine just started getting better and better to about 1100 or so

 

Stored in a garage facing the sun in Las Vegas! It's murder on rubber parts. The band that holds the smog canister in the front broke just by touching it. Surprisingly, the seat and tires, etc., look very, very good.

Thanks for the advice on the carb, and the links. Even though it's running great, it wouldn't hurt to take it all apart and clean every nook and cranny.

 

QUOTE=Blackheart58;425669]Stored in a garage facing the sun in Las Vegas! It's murder on rubber parts. The band that holds the smog canister in the front broke just by touching it. Surprisingly, the seat and tires, etc., look very, very good.

Thanks for the advice on the carb, and the links. Even though it's running great, it wouldn't hurt to take it all apart and clean every nook and cranny.[/QUOTE]

+1. Congrats on getting essentially a brand new bike for half price, but your experience points out an essential truth about "cream puffs". Cosmetically they are pristine but watch out for non use issues. These things need to be run, and the former owner didn't even run a gallon of gas through it before it was parked. For arguments sake I'll assume (not a good idea, I know) that she didn't drain the carb before she parked it, meaning that the bowl was probably full of E10 until it evaportated. For that reason alone I'd pull the carb and make sure it was **** and span. Check the fuel lines while you're at it.

You might also consider and oil change right now. I know there are conflicting views on this subject but I always want to swap out my break in oil after just a couple of hundred miles. Not that I think the oil is bad, just that I like to look in the drain pan for telltale metal filings that tell me things are properly wearing in. 10 bucks, 20 minutes AND you get to futz with the filter spring conundrum (lots of advice here on that, I went with the spread it out a bit and fuggedaboutit route)

Jackson has it right, the bike will continue to pull stronger and feel smoother up over 1,000 miles. After that, tweak away. The KLX is a fun little beast, hope you enjoy it.

PS. My second paragraph got edited by the computer PC police, who don't realize the reference to s-p-i-c and span predates PC sensibilities. #$*+!

 

Oil was draining out within five minutes of me hitting my garage! Didn't have a filter, yet, but, the oil is new! I'm waiting on my slip-on exhaust to arrive before I re-jet...so, the carb will get a good cleaning while I have it apart. I got 65 mpg the first tankful I ran through it. That was with lots of cleaning agents mixed in, too!

 

Tell me about it every time I post a photo I have to change the text in the photo link cause of that stupid filter

 

Ah, now I see what you were talking about. I put a tiny dab of grease on the spring, and it stuck to the new filter long enough to get it seated correctly. Glad to report the old filter had no shavings! First bike I've ever had with a first-time filter so clean...but, it did only have about 200 miles on it, and I don't usually change filters for a couple of thousand miles...even when I change the oil more often. Did a lot of study, backed by advice from science and Used Oil Analyis, which convinced me to leave them in for at least two and sometimes three Oil Change Intervals...because they get MORE efficient as they age, within reason.