Hi guys quick question. I put on a new HMF pipe and rejeted the carb. 125 main and 40 pilot and fuel screw 2 out. Bike fired right up after install put everything back on and took for a test. Bike idles fine and will move while idling. as soon as you give the bike gas and it hits 2k rpms it starts to die. If you gas it it will bog alittle and then run like a scalded dog! Any help would be great. I am at sea level.

 

What did you do with the slide and needle?...needle type and position along with drilling the slide. Was your jetting involving a DJ kit or just OEM stuff?

 

Your to fat on the pilot jet. Go back to a 38 and try 2 turns out on the screw.

 

No change on the Needle. They did recommend a shim on the needle. Both jets are kawasaki replacement parts. So RaceGass I should leave the fuel screw 2 turns out and just put the 38 pilot back in?

 

I only put in the 40 pilot jet after doing every available mod to enhance performance. Header, slip on exhaust, air filter, free mods, port matching the header to the exhaust port, synthetic gear box oil, DJ 2206 kit. The fuel screw was only out 1.25-1.5 turns.

 

Thanks Ill swap it back out a see where that puts me!

 

I have pretty much the same setup as you except I changed the needle (see below) and my bike starts instantaneously hot or cold, I can ride off right away even in the winter, idles perfectly hot or cold, and runs like a raped ape from idle to redline.

 

I'd get rid of that OEM needle to start with. It's got a lousy profile for the mods you're doing. And I'd agree that the pilot is probably too big for what you have. But I wouldn't waste a lot of tuning time with that stock needle. Either get the KLX300 needle or maybe better the DJ needle.

 

If it's just the pipe you've done, go back to the stock pilot.

 

I don't see how it can be the pilot jet. I have the same pipe and the same pilot and the carb performs flawlessly. In fact the reason I put in the 40 was because it was recommended by HMF themselves in their forum.