New Goods Installed w/Pics
#1
New Goods Installed w/Pics
Finally got my new bars, handguards, bar risers, and shorty clutch installed. I tried to muscle the handguards into shape with a crescent wrench and a vise but the bars are so damn tough that the vise was spinning on its baseplate even with having 2 setscrews in it! I ended up just leaving everything loose and slowly drawing it all together, nothing seems to be under a great deal of tension.
Parts:
Tusk T-10 KX-low bend aluminum bars
Tusk D-Flex guards with optional spoilers
Tusk adjustable bar riser kit, comes with several spacers and 3 different length clamp bolts
MSR Pro Raptor shorty clutch assembly
E-bay 1" lowering links (slid forks up 5/8" hence the need for the bar risers)
I only slid the forks up 5/8" because that is where a taper starts and I wanted all the meat in the triple clamp I could get so I stopped there. I took a 24 mile ride today (all pavement too much ice) and it seems to handle no different than before other than I can touch the ground much easier, no more scooting to one side. I almost got to try out the new handguards as I attempted a trail but as soon as I let the clutch out in second the rear passed the front and I went a full 90 degrees sliding with a foot down...........but I saved it.
The bars and guards I highly recommend, with the spoilers my hands stayed warm on a 35 degree day wearing just light snocross gloves (very very little insulation, barely thicker than mx gloves). I don't know if its a matter of the handguards tieing the bars together or if its the properties of the aluminum but damn, even at 75 there were no more vibes in the bars than if I was riding my mountain bike........incredible! The steel bars would numb my right hand very quickly depending on speed and road conditions. I even took it up near redline, just as smooth as smooth can be.
Shorty clutch.........do your fingers a favor and get one! Can keep a firm grip on the bars and still operate the clutch with no crushed knuckles.
I also picked up a cable lube kit that has a clamp on lube applicator and an aerosol lube. It gave mixed results. Worked great for the clutch cable but the throttle cables have the adjuster nut built in and the lube just sprayed out past the adjuster.
Anyway here are some pictures:
Parts:
Tusk T-10 KX-low bend aluminum bars
Tusk D-Flex guards with optional spoilers
Tusk adjustable bar riser kit, comes with several spacers and 3 different length clamp bolts
MSR Pro Raptor shorty clutch assembly
E-bay 1" lowering links (slid forks up 5/8" hence the need for the bar risers)
I only slid the forks up 5/8" because that is where a taper starts and I wanted all the meat in the triple clamp I could get so I stopped there. I took a 24 mile ride today (all pavement too much ice) and it seems to handle no different than before other than I can touch the ground much easier, no more scooting to one side. I almost got to try out the new handguards as I attempted a trail but as soon as I let the clutch out in second the rear passed the front and I went a full 90 degrees sliding with a foot down...........but I saved it.
The bars and guards I highly recommend, with the spoilers my hands stayed warm on a 35 degree day wearing just light snocross gloves (very very little insulation, barely thicker than mx gloves). I don't know if its a matter of the handguards tieing the bars together or if its the properties of the aluminum but damn, even at 75 there were no more vibes in the bars than if I was riding my mountain bike........incredible! The steel bars would numb my right hand very quickly depending on speed and road conditions. I even took it up near redline, just as smooth as smooth can be.
Shorty clutch.........do your fingers a favor and get one! Can keep a firm grip on the bars and still operate the clutch with no crushed knuckles.
I also picked up a cable lube kit that has a clamp on lube applicator and an aerosol lube. It gave mixed results. Worked great for the clutch cable but the throttle cables have the adjuster nut built in and the lube just sprayed out past the adjuster.
Anyway here are some pictures:
#3
RE: New Goods Installed w/Pics
Hell yeah, arent aluminum bars great. I noticed we have the same grips. Those grips are really great, I rode mine today too and mine hands never felt better. Best $8 I ever spent .
Whats the deal with your front brake line sticking up so high?
Whats the deal with your front brake line sticking up so high?
#4
RE: New Goods Installed w/Pics
Its a 2 part answer, I slid the brake master cylinder over to clear the handguards and I slid the fork tubes up 5/8" to compensate (somewhat) for dropping the rear of the bike 1"
#5
RE: New Goods Installed w/Pics
Nice work! Thanks for the info how comfy your hands felt. That's very useful in my part of the world. The spoilers, along with my heated grips, should keep things toasty.
#8
RE: New Goods Installed w/Pics
ORIGINAL: bryantjt
Its a 2 part answer, I slid the brake master cylinder over to clear the handguards and I slid the fork tubes up 5/8" to compensate (somewhat) for dropping the rear of the bike 1"
Its a 2 part answer, I slid the brake master cylinder over to clear the handguards and I slid the fork tubes up 5/8" to compensate (somewhat) for dropping the rear of the bike 1"
#10
RE: New Goods Installed w/Pics
Well its not so much the master cylinder as it is the brake lever, but the attachment point is at the MC so I just said I moved the MC over. There is plenty of clearance for the MC, just not for the ball on the brake lever. Kinda like the ankle bone is connected to the leg bone etc etc.