@greychinos I have the 2018 KLX250 (US version). The dyno graph did not change shape after doing the clutch switch mod. All you really benefit from it is being able to crank the engine with the clutch out, if you want to consider that a benefit. The PCFC controls fueling. They do not make a PCV for the 2018+ KLX250. By all means, the mods you listed will open up the bike's power and torque with just fuel tuning. My next round of mods will be revolving around finding a solution to the ignition timing debacle.

@Mateja The clutch switch mod definitely seems to get rid of the limiter in the upper gears for the International bikes. However, the 2018+ US bikes can rev past 7,500 in the upper gears, in stock form. The US bikes have a soft limiter, rather, past 7,700ish RPM that was not defeated by the clutch switch mod.

 

You've had both the EJK and the PCFC right? Which one do you like better and why? Also how would you characterize the gains made by lidless/slip-on/EJK. Would you say it makes about the same difference in acceleration that the 13T sprocket does, or is it even more dramatic than that?

Also in regards to DynoJet compatibility, I see the PCV was offered only for Euro 2010 models, so that makes sense that it wouldn't work with our 2018+ US bikes. But all the PCFCs for KLXs I can find for sale ship out of Italy or the UK, and the DynoJet site, aside from that 2010 PCV, only shows carb jet kits for 2009 - 2014 models. Is the PCFC sold by the European resellers compatible with our bikes with zero modification?

https://www.dynojet.com/parts/kawasaki/klx250s/

 

The EJK works well for just uncorking the bike. Their recommended fueling is just about spot on for Stage 1 mods. When you go for a custom setup, like the big bore, I prefer the PCFC. The PCFC allows for a custom fuel map, with dyno tuning. The part number you are looking for is EFC17900E, for the PCFC. The two European retailers are Evo Motion/EM Lineamoto and Bike Design Benelux. I ordered from both and preferred the latter. It was a plug and play setup for me. Then, I took it to the dyno to get tuned. Overall, I would have gotten the PCFC from the beginning knowing what I would eventually do to the bike. If I were to just stick with the exhaust and lidless setup, I would get the EJK.

I would say the Stage 1 mods had a much bigger effect on the bike than the 13T. The 13T greatly improved acceleration when I did it with Stage 1 mods, but the Stage 1 mods made it a totally different bike. It's estimated that power goes from about 18WHP to around 24WHP.

 

Thanks for the feedback. At the very most with this bike I may try running the AHL KLX300 cylinder and piston down the road. Do you feel that the EJK has enough flexibility to properly run 292cc of displacement?

 

EJK has a 300cc tune listed for the KLX250 on their website. So, all you would have to do is send them your controller and they will put the tune on there. They also had a tune for the 351, but the one I received was not the best. The 300cc tune may be fine, but it is more difficult to dial in the tune on a dyno than the PCFC.

 

With the EJK there's no software interface, right? You're just straight up using the module attached to the bike and finding the best fueling via trial and error and seat of your pants feel, is that right?

Can I ask what getting a dyno tune usually runs you? Also if I wanted a dyno tune would I need to replace the stock narrow-band 02 sensor with a wideband sensor?

 

Correct, no software interface for the EJK. You "tune" the bike using the adjustments on the EJK. My dyno tune was about $250. I don't have an O2 sensor. I did the eliminator.... of course for off road use only.