New Big Bore Kit, which oil?

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Old 12-02-2010 | 09:38 PM
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Default New Big Bore Kit, which oil?

Hi all,

I've got a 351 kit which will soon be going in, I'm currently using a synthetic oil.
Once the new cylinder is fitted, should I run a non synthetic oil first for a short period of time?

Cheers
 
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Old 12-02-2010 | 09:53 PM
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I didn't...I just kept the Valvoline synthetic 20w-50 in there that I already had in it (not motorcycle-specific, either, nor is Valvoline synthetic one of the best synthetics out there). I changed it out after about 50 miles or so. I now have about 400 miles on the 331...zero oil consumption. Couldn't be happier.

I don't think it matters...just run it decently vigorously, with a good bit of engine braking. It's not like you're wearing in transmission parts, etc., it's only rings.
 
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Old 12-02-2010 | 10:24 PM
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Automotive oils are hard on clutches. I ran automotive oils for years but, now I use Motorcycle oils. There may not be a difference but why take the chance.

I have a 351 and run Yam, Hon or Kaw 10-40 oils.
 
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Old 12-02-2010 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Shifter
Automotive oils are hard on clutches. I ran automotive oils for years but, now I use Motorcycle oils. There may not be a difference but why take the chance.

I have a 351 and run Yam, Hon or Kaw 10-40 oils.
I disagree. I also think you're spending WAY more for oil than what you get in performance. Regular old Rotella 15w-40 would probably outperform any of those oils you listed, based upon Used Oil Analysis, unless you are using a "synthetic" version of one of those you listed. Even then, Rotella would be hard to beat.
 
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Old 12-03-2010 | 03:45 AM
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corn oil.
 
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Old 12-03-2010 | 05:57 AM
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A friend of mine is a mechanic and he's a little odd so this might be complete BS. He told me that the Rotella 15w40 has the best film strength of all conventional oils. He said he had a snomobil with a rotary engine and it wouldn't run on normal 2 stroke oil because it was too thin and wouldn't fill the voids in the moving parts, so he used Rotella as the mix and it ran great. Like I said, it might be complete BS. He is from a town that's Wisconsin's answer to West Virginia and he's got some funny ideas about stuff.
 
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Old 12-03-2010 | 09:58 AM
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I am a 30+ year mechanic and a little odd...

I just left what was in the bike and rode it for 75 miles and changed it AND the filter. I am Not using synthetic, but it won't hurt. I would run one oil change of plain ol 10w40 then go back to your regular oil. After a couple hundred miles I figured it was broke in. It does seem to run better and better still after 400 miles. I had to put it up for winter sunday night

Top ring is chrome, second compression ring is cast.
Chrome takes longer to break in. Don't forget to stagger the rings like in the manual.
David
 

Last edited by David R; 12-03-2010 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 12-03-2010 | 01:07 PM
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If you change the oil regularly as the manufacturer recommends, then use AOS.
Proven by engineers everywhere.
 
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Old 12-03-2010 | 07:52 PM
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The sump only holds a bit more than one quart, so the difference in cost between bargain and premium oil is about the price of a cup of coffee. Might as well use the best.
 
  #10  
Old 12-04-2010 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BassTeQ
Hi all,

I've got a 351 kit which will soon be going in, I'm currently using a synthetic oil.
Once the new cylinder is fitted, should I run a non synthetic oil first for a short period of time?

Cheers
I think the best person to ask this question to would be Bill Blue.
 


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