I would be worried about a dealer that doesn't know about the 2 holes in the slide..... it is well documented on many forums etc, the same is done to the KLR650 in AUS as well to make them LAMS bikes.... this was the very first thing I did to my KLX, the dealer offered to do it for me but suggested it was an easy mod for almost anyone to do.

 

Australian manual for 2008 and up model specifies power as 17kW@8500rpm (equivalent to 23.11hp). Not stated whether at crank or at wheel.

Torque is specced at 15@6500rpm.

Differences between AU and US model:

all three jets sizes, N1RX needle, ignition timing 35deg@5000rpm, different CDI, no cat in exhaust, carb de-icing circuit.

Cheers.

 

I just spoke to the dealer and they have ordered the parts and will be doing it for me when the parts arrive. The service manager advised me that they can't do it to a LAMS approved bike until it is sold. They just forgot to tell me I guess. It will be interesting to see how much better it rides seeing as the service report says this is essentially the optimum set up for the bike.

 

I'd think it is still on lean side. I was running this stock setup since I bought mine in April. The spark plug shows signs of lean fuel, also bike is popping like mad on decel.

Coincidentally my bike is being re-jetted as we speak by local Kawi dealer. The mechanic is really switched on guy (ex Kawasaki team MX and enduro racer). I suggested the setup (#138, #38, 1.5mm collar under needle, snorkel off) and he says that's exactly how he'd done few of them.

I'm changing the exhaust with Staintune, filter with Uni O2Rush and iridium plug. Bike was lowered by previous owner, so he's going to play with suspension front and back as well.

Picking bike up Saturday morning, will report back here how it feels.

 

Yep! My 07 too.

 

Spent last weekend test riding the bike after mods.

I can't honestly say whether I can detect increase in power or torque. They had a dyno at the shop, but decided the invest money spent on dyno into more farkles where they would count more (Scorpion skid plate and rad guards).

The throttle response is definitely better, sort of crispier, with no delay and the bike starts far better.

The very noticeable difference is how the bike sounds. This Staintune muffler is awesome. Costs an arm and a leg, but I reckon it is worth the dough. Polished stainless steel, nothing packed inside just baffles. Staintune will issue a noise compliance sticker after submitting bike details as per our state road authority rules for aftermarket exhausts. It tested 94dBA vs 85dBA stock. The numbers would suggest that it is still a quiet exhaust, but boy, give it a throttle and it barks like dog of Baskerville. At idle its got really throaty, deep,
big thumper sound, but when cruising on flat at 80kph, 6000rpm I can barely hear it. Love it. Makes me think about Staintune header pipe, but at $300 a pop I'm thinking IMS 3 gal. tank would be much better proposition at the moment.

 

I got my brother in OZ to post me a 300 kit. Took around 4 hours to fit and cost around 500 Dollars. The power difference is enormous compared to expensive pipe and header mods.
My advise to any one wanting instant power boost and deciding on bang for buck, big bore is the way forward.

 

I bought a Staintune with my new '12 back in May. I didn't fit it at the time thinking I'd do it after it was run in but now I'm not sure I want it, the bike is loud enough with the stocker so I don't need/want anymore noise. I have a Staintune on my KLR but it's a very old model and much quieter than the new ones...