Hi guys,

I am new the forums after just buying a new 2012 klx250s in Australia. I love the bike, and can't seem to find any reason why someone would say it can't get out of its own way, or couldn't pull the skin off custard. I reckon it goes real well. I am not an advanced rider, but find this bike a little fire cracker. The only mods are that I have the FMF Q4, K&N Filter, snorkel removed and run 13/48 with Pirelli Mx Extra X tyres, I have just had the dealer rejet the carbie only to find that my 132 main has now been replaced with a 128 main as per the stage 2 instructions. Seems strange to reduce the main jet when I have increased the air intake. Anyway, I will be riding it in a couple of hours to see what the result. Probably should have posted after the ride, but got excited. Seems to be that the US and Aus models are worlds apart. My question: is the Dyno Jet kit for the KLX250s specifically for the US model, and did I just waste some money? Love reading about the bike and mods. This forum was the reason I purchased the KLX and not the WR250R.

Cheers

FMF Q4, K&N Filter, snorkel removed, 13/48 sprockets, Z Chain, Evo Fat Bars, Jet Barkbusters, B&B Bash Plate, DRC leds, Edge2, All Black OEM Plastics, Pirelli Mx Extra X tyres, Stage 2 DJ Kit, Unibiker Rad Guards, (Black Excel Rims soon).

 

Hi Corkster welcome to the forum; what part of Australia are you from; I'm from Perth?

In regard to your carby, stock main jet is a 132 Keihin. Nomencature for Dynojet & Keihin jets are different. I purchased a new Keihin 138 main & 40 pilot from my Kawa dealer for $30 instead of buying a DJ kit that contains lotsa main jets & no pilot. I have shimmed my stock needle after running around with a N1TC for a couple of weeks because fuel consumption increased significantly; great power though.

Another thing is to check that the carby slide doesn't have the ADR item installed. Most dealers change or modify them before delivery. Apparently they don't do anymore than 70 km/hr flat out. See attached bulletin from Kawa Aust. Happy riding

 

Hi KLX4ME, I am in Brissie, so couldn't get much further away. I just had a rip around the streets and must say that I was expecting more. I found that the bottom end was probably the same, but mid range was a little crisper, but in reality, not a difference worth the money. Mine must have had the carbie mod already, as it easily hits 100kmh on a flat and gets from 70 to 90 real well. It slows down after 90 and takes a little while to get up to 115 which is what I have done so far. I was sitting on 100 at 8000rpm. i don't have anything to compare it to, but it is fast enough for me, as I will only ever ride trails with it. Do you think I should get a different jet and pilot, or just keep what I have already paid for. Whilst I hate wasting money, i will throw good money after bad if it is the right thing to do.

Cheers

 

I went with the jetting recommendations listed in the bulletin + installed a N1TC needle. As I commute daily on my bike, my fuel economy went south (140km reserve changeover down to 110km) so I replaced this with two shims under the stock needle. I'm happy with the perfomance of my bike bearing in mind it's only a 250. I recently installed a 15T c/s sprocket which is good for cruising but not-so good when crawling over rough terrain. Not worth spending anymore money on it as I'll try to get my unrestricted licence soon & upgrade.

 

corkster, I reckon the assessment of how fast a bike feels to a given rider is a little subjective...and maybe what the rider is used to riding...and where he's riding. Still, 18 or 19 horsepower isn't particularly overwhelming in the engine department by anyone's book. Now, your Aus model may have different or no restrictions like most U.S. models when it comes to emissions, but our model is pretty wimpy until you derestrict a couple of items and open up the jetting a bit. With intake, exhaust, and jetting mods, you're not so much adding gobs of power perhaps as much as broadening the powerband for a more useful and pleasant powerband. I do agree with you on the absolute fun you can get out of this bike.

 

Mine was stock and I got 140 kph out of it.

 

Well, I emailed the service information supplied by KLX4ME to my Kawasaki dealer and they had no idea at all. So i am now wondering if that filling of the two holes on the slide bit only relates to US only bikes. My dealer did state that the Aus bike puts out 23 hp and with pipe jetting and filter would be around 26 to 27. I also found that the DJ 128 is the same as a stock Kwai 138 so that answers that question. I guess I have reached the end of my mods without cracking the case open. I will just have to increase my riding skills to keep up
with my mates on their big bikes. Still, mine looks better, cost less, and makes me smile.

Cheers

FMF Q4, K&N Filter, snorkel removed, 13/48 sprockets, Z Chain, Evo Fat Bars, Jet Barkbusters, B&B Bash Plate, DRC leds, Edge2, All Black OEM Plastics, Pirelli Mx Extra X tyres, Stage 2 DJ Kit, Unibiker Rad Guards, (Black Excel Rims soon).

 

corkster, I wonder how those HP numbers are being documented? I've seen dyno numbers on a 351 KLX that is totally uncorked with a 34mm pumper carb not produce those numbers. I wonder if they're talking about HP at the crank rather than rear wheel?

 

The dyno jet kit is designed to give you a healthy air/fuel ratio throughout your rev range so as not be lean with your intake changes, I didn't notice alot of gain with my jet kit either but it was obivious that the overall jetting was more spot on. As far as hp numbers I've seen alot of dyno results on these bikes and the stocker is around 17hp and a stage 2 bike will be a little over 20hp, The best one I have seen for a stock bore bike was 23hp at stage 2. you will have to go big bore to do much better than that. And yes at 17hp my bike was a total dog, I had a 125cc 4 stroke at the time that would smoke it until about 60mph, but it did respond well to stage 2 type mods.

 

There was an Australian KLX250 forum that has been suspended. That's where I got the bulletin from. ADR = Australian Design Rule. Pretty easy to pull out the slide to inspect; just remove the fuel tank to access the diaphragm cover. Have you got rid of the deicing circuit? What a waste for Aussie bikes that is! Strange thing is that US bikes don't have it.