New 351 member, my thoughts
#11
I remember every time I do a throttle wheelie!!
David
#12
Update:
Well, I changed the oil this weekend and fine tuned the bike a little more. Put a few more miles on it and it is running better and better.
I think the idle problems have pretty much subsided, I ended up turning in the mixture screw a full turn too.
Bike now starts and idles like a champ. It is still a little loud in the valve train, don't know why this is, but it runs strong throughout the whole rpm range.
I took it out to some hills/dirt roads and coming off a corner to a straight away, I gave her a full goose in second gear and the front tire came right up of the ground. So for the first time since the install I had a grin from ear to ear.
I am really starting to like it now that it is settling in.
Well, I changed the oil this weekend and fine tuned the bike a little more. Put a few more miles on it and it is running better and better.
I think the idle problems have pretty much subsided, I ended up turning in the mixture screw a full turn too.
Bike now starts and idles like a champ. It is still a little loud in the valve train, don't know why this is, but it runs strong throughout the whole rpm range.
I took it out to some hills/dirt roads and coming off a corner to a straight away, I gave her a full goose in second gear and the front tire came right up of the ground. So for the first time since the install I had a grin from ear to ear.
I am really starting to like it now that it is settling in.
#13
I can honestly say that I've never rebuilt an engine, screwing in 30%+ more horsepower in the process, and felt any regrets. Let her break in a little bit, and all your fears will pass.
As for the valvetrain noise, it's the cam chain slapping. Run it a little bit and the adjuster will eventually take up the next notch of adjustment. Then everything will quiet down (relatively - the top-end will always make some noises).
As for the valvetrain noise, it's the cam chain slapping. Run it a little bit and the adjuster will eventually take up the next notch of adjustment. Then everything will quiet down (relatively - the top-end will always make some noises).
#15
#16
#17
Well, actually $527.45 for the 351 kit. Total was $702.45 because I didn't send him my cylinder. ($175 core charge)
If you send him your cylinder to bore, it would only be $527. Without the core it is $702.
If you send him your cylinder to bore, it would only be $527. Without the core it is $702.
#18
Do I need any other upgrades (besides jets)?
Also, is this someone from the forum?
#19
Easiest way is to add the core charge ("charge", as in money) to the cost of the big bore. That way you can work on the bike without waiting for your cylinder to be bored out. Doing it that way you get a cylinder ( someone elses core that has been bored and sleeved) that is ready to be installed. You don't have to wait two weeks for yours to come back from being bored and sleeved. Waiting two weeks, increases your chance of loosing something or not having everything fresh in your mind When you get it swapped out, you put your 250cc cylinder in a box and address it to Bill , insure it if your smart, and mail it to him . Once he gets it he will mail you a check for the core charge refund to you.
Bill is on this forum but he doesn't post much at all. He's a great guy, and will answer questions if you have trouble. There are no instructions that come with it. You need to use the service manual and have some basic mechanical skills. People have done it wrong and ruined their engines. It's easy if you research how to do it on here, get the service manual , take your time, and be very careful.
#20
I think eventually you will come to appreciate the 351. I think it's a bit noisier than the 250 but since I really can't remember how noisy my 250 was, I could be wrong. Mine runs well with a 40 pilot jet. Starts up great and has great power throughout the entire powerband. It's a great improvement to a great bike.