You'll need to slack off the chain some for the CS sprocket change. I belive the socket size you need for the CS sprocket and the rear axle is a 27mm. If i'm wrong on the size, someone will be along shortly to correct it.

DO you have any pictures of your Moose handguards yet?

Willum
TC

 

TC,

Thanks for the info.

I don't have any pics of my own. Actually, I just ordered them yesterday. I went on the recommendation of EMS_525, though. You can get a good look at the guards and shields in his avatar and in a bigger picture in this thread linked here: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_660...1/tm.htm#66160.

They look pretty sweet to me, and it sounds like they are about as tough as they come. I went for the Titanium finish with the lime green (duh!) shields.

Good luck.

 

marty, are you saying to get access to the needle you just have to take the tank and seat off? that might be an easy solution for me to try to change the clip position the the 4th.... but im thinking i have to change the main to a 128....

btw cwgoff those moose guards dont fit right on... i had to drill new holes for the mounting on the inside of the bars, no big deal if you want me to i can take more pics of mine....

 

EMS, that would be great. You can either PM me or post them here if you think others might benefit. I don't know if you can attach pics to a PM anyway. I have never tried. Anyway, as much info as possible on the handlebar drilling, etc. would be helpful.

BTW, do you have the standard size or large size shields. I went for the large size for added wind protection since I intend to commute with the bike through the winter. I live in NC, so the winters are not too bad - plus I only have about a 4 mile commute anyway. Plus, as I said earlier, I am stronger/tougher than most men to boot. Actually, I had to promise my wife that I would really, really ride it as a commuter in place of my Ford F150 in order to justify getting the bike at all. I kind of have to ride through the winter or she will see through my little ploy. A small price to pay.

Thanks,
Chris

 

the guards i got

ok ill take some more detailed pics later, the reason i got the hand guards is because i didnt want to bend a lever again, it fell over one time and bent the brake lever, and to protect my hands while riding... because of the way the stock bars are they had to get mounted a little higher than i wanted, but they serve my purpose.

 

I've done the jetting thing, but I think I'm going to have to adjust my needle, so this is all I was thinking I had to do. (i.e.: seat & tank)

What about for jets, though? I read somewhere that rather than pulling the carb, you could just rotate it in place to access the float chamber ... anyone know if its that easy?

I removed my carb the first time around for the jetting and slide drilling ... I just remember the throttle cable bracket was a b*tch to get off (I didn't remove the cables from it, just undid the screw holding it and there was enough slack afterwards to remove the cables from the carb.) The problem was there's next to no wiggle room in there to rotate/tip/turn the bracket to unhook it from the carb body.

Is there a secret maneuver to unhooking it, or was I just trying to cut too many corners by not undoing the throttle cables, and everyone else removes the cables first?

Mike

 

27mm is correct

 

i have taken the throttle cables and that bracket off and loosened up the air hoses and have rotated the carb a few times now, adjusting the air fuel screw, it works ok for that, i have not looked at it enough when rotated to see if you could change the jets while it was rotated. those damn throttle cables are a pain in the ***..

I was talking to a bike mechanic and was telling him everything i have done, and was asking him some questions, one thing he said to do to find the right place for the air/fuel screw is adjust it while its running and the idle will go up then when the idle starts coming back down just from adjusting the air fuel screw, thats where u want it... sounded reasonable, i believe that is how to do it in a carb on a car... big difference. Being that is my first vehicle with a carb on it, yes i know im young, im still new to this whole carb thing.... anyway... does anyone see a way on adjusting the a/f screw while its running? The only way i can adjust it still on the bike is to take th throttle cables off and rotate it, but i dont think the carb will work properly rotated while running... anyone else have any input on this....

 

I haven't tried this, but even though its tight in there, a REALLY short screwdriver (like the tiny ones for fixing eyeglasses) might be able to fit between the starting motor and the carb. The A/F screw is kind of small itself, so an eyeglass screwdriver should do the trick. You have to approach it from the left side of the bike, otherwise there's going to be a HOT exhaust pipe in your way!

Mike

 

I ended up buying one of these...
About $86 plus shipping (lightly used) on eBay.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/motionpro...erreview.shtml