I know there is a similar discussion to this going on in another thread right now, but this is a little different, so I did not want to hijack that thread.

I know that this is a tired old question, but I have searched through all of the threads I can find here and on Advrider, and I need a straight answer. I am going to be doing my carb mods early next week, and I have a few questions about the needle.

I live @ about 1000' above sea level.

My plan is to install the main jet along with the N1TC needle and the associated parts. I will be doing the airbox mods, smog removal & muzzy pipe install and 13T sprocket change all at the same time.

My questions are:
1. I think I should start with the needle in the 2nd position from the top, but I still can't figure out if the top is the blund end or the pointy end. I think it is the blunt end as this end is up when installed. Am I thinking of this properly?
2. For my elevation, do you guys suggest the 125 or 128. If it matters, I weigh about 230#, so the little green machine is having to work pretty hard to move me around. I guess I have assumed that if I open up the airbox enough (double snorkel) along with the better exhaust, then the more fuel the better, therefore the 128. With that said though, if I have missed somewhere where someone has found the 128 to be over the top, then someone please remind me.
3. Last question for now. Do I understand correctly that if I up the rear sprocket to a 45 with my 13 front then I will need to go for a new chain?

Thanks to everyone. I am sorry for the repeat questions, but as we have all found out, the information on this thread is wonderful but fragmented. It does not help that I am fairly easily confused. [8D]

Chris

 

the top is the end with the notches in it, and everyone seems to have thier bike set up different.... mines in the 3rd, not sure if its the best for me.... might go to the 4th... or the 128 main.

 

Chris,

Not a problem! I understand the fact that everyone is not real sure when the altitude changes and you just want your bike to be right on!

Okay, first of all, I don't really see where 1000 feet is going to make a huge difference in jetting vs where I live - 75 feet above sea level.

You will have less than a 2% variance in air density between the two altitudes. Like I said, it is NOT that much difference.

Since you have the Muzzy exhause, if it were me, I would go with the #128 jet, needle in the 2nd slot down from the blunt end (closest to the notches).

Let us know how it works for you.

 

I did all the mods but used a Moose Dyna Jet kit I will post later today exactly what I used and where I have it set . I feel it can't run much better and I have piped and jetted a lot of bikes. I will say with the new needle it was about 1/4 higher out of the needle tube than the stock one and much smaller taper. And I am useing a 124 main with a stock piolet I feel if I use the 128 I will be way rich I put the KDX 200 snorkel in now if I took the lid off all together then I would need the 128 main I think a lot of guys are running a bit on the rich side with the 128 main with the lid on.
I will post my set up later today and maybe some people that are getting ready to buy there parts can try my tuneup and save them some time....

 

Thanks, guys.

I will go for 128 jet w/ needle @ 2nd from blunt.

While you guys are being so helpful (read: logged on ), let me hit you with a couple more.

1. RTV sealant - It looks like I need sealant in two places for the cheap mods. First is to seal in the new snorkel for the double snorkel mod (black?) and second is for the foremost plug for the removal of the smog junk (red?). Question is - what is the difference between red and black? Is it temp application? If so, is there any downside in using the high-temp version (red?) on the low temp application (snorkel) to avoid having to buy 2 tubes?
2. Sprocket Change - I have read a couple of different approaches to removing the OEM front sprocket. The easiest seems to be to have someone sit on the bike and hold down the back brake. A couple of question here -
A - Does the back break need to be held with a lot of force? If not, could I just tie-wrap the brake pedal down?
B - Has anyone come up with a better way to loosing the nut on the sprocket? Any success with liquid wrench or similar products?
C - What is the size of the nut? I read somewhere that it is 23mm and somewhere that it is 33mm. I haven't really looked, but 23mm would be just under and inch, which sounds about right. 33mm would be a big honkin' nut. I haven't noticed it looking that big, but I certainly haven't really looked.
3. Carb removal - I haven't run across any step-by-step instructions on how to remove the carb. Can someone point me to a procedure, hopefully with pics.

Thanks again to all.

 

for sprocket removal.... air impact gun.... works like a charm...... the hmf website has carb removal guide with pics. dont have the link on hand.....

 

I've just been poking around the HMF site for the pics/procedure that EMS references. Not finding it. If anyone knows where it is, please advise.

 

I just found the thread on the HMF forums that EMS referenced. Great pics and instructions!

Here is the link for anyone that needs it.

Carb Removal Instructions from HMF Forums

Thanks for the tip EMS.

Chris

 

Never a problem.

Here it is!

There's 3 pages of very helpful information here. Lots of great pictures and all.

If you have not already purchased the N1TC needle, you might want to try the shimming as set forth in his procedure. It costs about 9ยข for a stainless stell #4 washer at most hardware stores. About .030 is what you need for a shim. Might be worth the attempt.

Besides, if it's not right, all you need to do is remove the seat and tank to access the needle.

Let us know if there's anything else we can do.

On the countershaft sprocket, make sure you flatten out the retention washer. That's the one that has been peened over to keep the nut from being loosened. It comes off lots easier that way. Air impact is very easy to remove it with.

 

Hah! Marty, it looks like I was posting while you were typing. Thanks, though.

Okay, so for the sprocket removal - I don't have access to an impact wrench. What I am hearing is that this is the only easy way, though. Other than that, it is just flatten out the washer, get as long a wrench as possible and have at it. Is that the deal.

I am stronger than most men, so I am guessing I will not have a problem like the rest of you guys did. Yeah, right. I am pretty ornery, though, so we will see how it goes. I will be giving it a shot early next week, so I will report on my results then.

Some posts have indicated that I will also need to remove/loosen the back wheel to put enough slack in the chain to remove the sprocket. Does that sound right? I sure hope not. I was hoping it was just a matter of loosening that one nut, swapping out the sprockets and putting the original nut back on. Is it not that easy?

Thanks.