need help, move the needle or change the main?

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  #11  
Old 05-29-2007, 09:45 PM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

Alright, I looked at the chart and went back into the carb. I put a 128main needle on 2nd clip and fuel screw 1.5 out, put the lid back on but removed snorkel. First test ride didn't seem to bad but did not have as much power as initialy before it started to run bad. Then test drove it with the stock snorkel in, seemed to run worse. Brought it home, took the lid off completly and retest drove(with the lid with me just incase). It seemed to make better power with the lid on with no snorkel so I stop on the side of the road and put the lid back on. On all rides the was considerable popping on decel, some were very loud. It was occuring mostly at 4-7k rpm. I did notice that when I turn the idle screw all the way in the idle never drops. I think I am going to put the stock 35 back in.(the stock air screw was bottomed all the in when I first took it apart). Any other suggestions on lid-no lid, clip setting, main jet?
 
  #12  
Old 05-30-2007, 02:45 AM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

if you have put a few miles on it since rejeting
check your plug
 
  #13  
Old 05-30-2007, 04:36 PM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

Also it may be worthwhile to change out your plug if it was quite sooty. I replaced mine this spring, they are cheap and less than 10 minutes to swap. I run with no snorkel, but have the lid on and if I'm in the high rpm's and close the throttle quick I get alot of popping, or if I'm downshifting at high rpm's. I think decel pop would be related to both the fuel screw and the pilot jet because essentially it does it at closed throttle, where those items come into play. If you have the extra jets and what not just keep trying but only change one thing at a time or else you will go in circles. Also, here's another way to check things, if the bike runs great when its cold, like right from start up and then gradually worsens, then you are too rich. On the other side of the coin if its really cold blooded, doesn't like to start w/out the choke even in 80 degree weather but rips when its warmed up you are on the lean side of things. There's no exact science to jetting the bike, aside from having an exhaust gas analyzer, its trial and error. Also I don't know if it was mentioned but clean and re oil your air filter. If its a foam one oil it, work it in with your hands then squeeze the filter between paper towels to remove the excess oil. A plugged filter or an over oiled one will make your bike run like crap.

I just got back from the NJ ride and even though my Uni filter didn't look too bad, I replaced it with my clean and oiled stock filter and there was a huge difference in throttle response and low end grunt, and the water from cleaning the uni was practically solid black.
 
  #14  
Old 05-30-2007, 09:01 PM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

My filter should be ok, it has only been in a few miles and not in any real dusty conditions. I am going to go back in tonight, put the 35 pilot back in, clean the plug as best I can before I can get out and get a new one and see what happens.
 
  #15  
Old 05-30-2007, 09:22 PM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

just running it should burn the soot off the plug
 
  #16  
Old 05-30-2007, 11:55 PM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

Update. Pulled carb again. Put the 35 pilot back in. Fuel screw started at 2 turns out. Left the 128 main in, needle on 2nd. notch, lid on with no snorkel. Started bike, needed choke for about 45sec-1min.(80+ deg.).Let idle and started to turn the fuel screw in. Idle started to run rough at about 1 turn out. Started to back out and ended at 2.5 turns, where it seemed to idle the best. This is something that never happened with the 40 pilot, all the way in and no change. Took for a test drive. The bottom end feels very good, better than the first intial rejet(when it was running good). I didn't get to wind it all the way up, but got close to the top end. It seemed to run ok, but not as strong as the first intial rejet(which is probably to be expected since I had no lid and more fuel going in). Decel pop is still there, and still seems louder than the first rejet. It will only pop when th rpms drop to 4.5k and continues to pop dowm to about 3k where I normaly either down shift again or pull in the clutch. No popping above 4.5k rpm. Any ideas? I may go back in agian and try to go no lid with the 132main or the intial 135 I had in since the 35 pilot I am sure has leaned it out some.
 
  #17  
Old 06-02-2007, 01:33 AM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

Update, the stock 35 pilot is no good. Bike starts ok, sometimes, and takes a long time to warm up. It will stall if choke is closed to early and even though it idles and dosen't die when warm the idle seems not that good. Even when stock thechoke could be closed almost instantly. I went to the dealer and ordered a #38 pilot jet today, the 40 seemed to much so hopefully this will work. Decel popping is still there and loud. I am going to raise the needle from 2nd to 3rd slot this weekend and see what happens. Does anyone know what circuits are operating when the throttle is closed and the bike is deceling? Is it only the pilot and a/f screw or does the needle and main come in to play also. I am trying to tune for performance but would also like to get rid of some of the popping in the process if possible.
 
  #18  
Old 06-02-2007, 02:41 AM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?



Eddie Sisneros[/align]01-14-2006, 11:52 AM[/align][/align]seems like the most common jetting issue that comes up are pilot circuit related.the following is a sure method to choose the needed changes.

with the bike warm and idleing turn the fuel screw in till the idle drops/misses.then go back out till the idle peaks/smooths.

this should happen between 1 and 2.5 turns on a fcr carb and 1 and 3 turns on a cv.

if you end up at less than 1 turn you need a smaller pilot jet.more than 2.5 (or 3 turns on a cv) you need a bigger pilot jet.

choose the appropriate size and retest.[/align][/align][/align]This is from ThumperTalk and should help. The pop on decel is the pilot circuit. A little bit of popping is ok. I find it more difficult to get the needle and main adjusted if the pilot is not properly set.[/align][/align][/align][/align]
 
  #19  
Old 06-02-2007, 08:11 PM
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Default RE: need help, move the needle or change the main?

Thanks I read that on there, with the 40 pilot the idle would never drop, it does with the 35 and starts to run better at 2.5 turns out but I think it needs about 1 turn more. I would go to 3 but the kouba fuel screw says not to go past 2.5. I guess I will wait and see but the 38 pilot should do the trick. Anyone else have to run with the 38? Pulled the plug today after a few miles and looks good. I am going to wait to raise the needle until the pilot comes in.
 
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