Need advise and help on getting some new shoes for the KLX
#1
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I am quickly wearing thru my back tire and want to get another set of what I have. Perrelli Scorpion MT 90 AT's
While doing research on where to get the tires I found this helpful page
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/ti...lain.jsp#speed
Which explained difference between a
90/90-21 M/C 54S & 90/90-21 M/C 54V TL is the later has higher speed rateing and is designed to be tubless(not for me)
So on the front it looks like I have a choice of 80/90(what I am currently running), and a 90/90
Considering I do most of my rideing on pavement(Most of it crappy pavement) and hard gravel what are the pros and cons of each?
Here is what I am thinking
80/90 would be better for the occasions when I get caught in the rain. But I slow down and take my time so I dont think I need to worry so much about hydroplaneing. It is less rotational mass so robs less HP but would that be noticible?
90/90 has more tire cushion for broken pavement and hard bumps. Also should grip better in the turns. On the occasion that I see some loose sand it should float easier/plow less. It will also make my spedo/odo off by more than it is now.
Rear
110/80 is what I am runnign now. Advantage less mass-robs less power
other options
120/80 Wider and a little taller. More mass less power applied to moveing the bike forward. More traction
120/90 Wider and Tallest. Even more mass most tire cusion for rough roads and also will change the gear ratio closer to where I would like to try it which is 14/44 or 14/43.
So takeing all this into consideration and your comments
I think what I would like to buy is
1ea front 90/90 -21
1ea Rear 110/80 - 18
1ea Rear 120/90 - 18
EDIT Called denis Kirk and they are more than happy to take my money and ship me what I want in exchange. Seems like the starting of a good realtionship.
While doing research on where to get the tires I found this helpful page
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/ti...lain.jsp#speed
Which explained difference between a
90/90-21 M/C 54S & 90/90-21 M/C 54V TL is the later has higher speed rateing and is designed to be tubless(not for me)
So on the front it looks like I have a choice of 80/90(what I am currently running), and a 90/90
Considering I do most of my rideing on pavement(Most of it crappy pavement) and hard gravel what are the pros and cons of each?
Here is what I am thinking
80/90 would be better for the occasions when I get caught in the rain. But I slow down and take my time so I dont think I need to worry so much about hydroplaneing. It is less rotational mass so robs less HP but would that be noticible?
90/90 has more tire cushion for broken pavement and hard bumps. Also should grip better in the turns. On the occasion that I see some loose sand it should float easier/plow less. It will also make my spedo/odo off by more than it is now.
Rear
110/80 is what I am runnign now. Advantage less mass-robs less power
other options
120/80 Wider and a little taller. More mass less power applied to moveing the bike forward. More traction
120/90 Wider and Tallest. Even more mass most tire cusion for rough roads and also will change the gear ratio closer to where I would like to try it which is 14/44 or 14/43.
So takeing all this into consideration and your comments
I think what I would like to buy is
1ea front 90/90 -21
1ea Rear 110/80 - 18
1ea Rear 120/90 - 18
EDIT Called denis Kirk and they are more than happy to take my money and ship me what I want in exchange. Seems like the starting of a good realtionship.
Last edited by maninthesea; 01-28-2010 at 09:25 PM.
#3
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90/90 front is going to be your best bet, 80/90 i herd is to small and doesnt get enough traction. 90/90 wont hydroplane, trust me. also, the front tire wont rob hp, just the back. for the rear, its kinda personaly choice. i like 120 over the 110, do to traction. 130 is just a waste. 80 profile over 90, for gearing and height of the bike. hope this helps.
#4
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I will check into motocross giant. I had never heard of them.
Thanks Punkenduro for the advise. I was leaning toward the 80/90 becuase it is significantly cheeper from Dennis Kirk. Upon your advise I think I will spring for the 90/90front. & one each of the 120/80 and 120/90.
Cheers and thanks again.
Thanks Punkenduro for the advise. I was leaning toward the 80/90 becuase it is significantly cheeper from Dennis Kirk. Upon your advise I think I will spring for the 90/90front. & one each of the 120/80 and 120/90.
Cheers and thanks again.
#6
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Since it came up, a 130 fits fine. I'm sure that it takes more hp to turn it , but I can't feel the difference. I put a 130 Dunlop D606 on to see how I liked it. I did two dual sport rides last fall with it on, and really didn't feel any difference good or bad. (no more traction , no less power) The only negative was that it cost ~$10 more than the 120. I'll just go with the 120 next time.
Mine is the "retarded" looking one on the left with the 130, the bike on the right has the same dunlop D606 tire but in a 120.
![Name: IMG_4642.jpg
Views: 636
Size: 190.3 KB](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/attachments/klx-250s-71/17584d1501285115-need-advise-help-getting-some-new-shoes-klx-img_4642.jpg)
130
![Name: IMG_4729.jpg
Views: 653
Size: 170.4 KB](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/attachments/klx-250s-71/17585d1501285115-need-advise-help-getting-some-new-shoes-klx-img_4729.jpg)
If you are running knobbies you don't have to worry about hydroplaning.
The 10mm difference from a 110 to a 120 is just over 3/8's of an inch on the overall cross section, not really much in my book.
Dan
Mine is the "retarded" looking one on the left with the 130, the bike on the right has the same dunlop D606 tire but in a 120.
![Smile](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Name: IMG_4642.jpg
Views: 636
Size: 190.3 KB](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/attachments/klx-250s-71/17584d1501285115-need-advise-help-getting-some-new-shoes-klx-img_4642.jpg)
130
![Name: IMG_4729.jpg
Views: 653
Size: 170.4 KB](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/attachments/klx-250s-71/17585d1501285115-need-advise-help-getting-some-new-shoes-klx-img_4729.jpg)
If you are running knobbies you don't have to worry about hydroplaning.
The 10mm difference from a 110 to a 120 is just over 3/8's of an inch on the overall cross section, not really much in my book.
Dan
#8
![Default](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since it came up, a 130 fits fine. I'm sure that it takes more hp to turn it , but I can't feel the difference. I put a 130 Dunlop D606 on to see how I liked it. I did two dual sport rides last fall with it on, and really didn't feel any difference good or bad. (no more traction , no less power) The only negative was that it cost ~$10 more than the 120. I'll just go with the 120 next time.
Mine is the "retarded" looking one on the left with the 130, the bike on the right has the same dunlop D606 tire but in a 120.
![](http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/danrkfd/IMG_4642.jpg)
130
![](http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/danrkfd/IMG_4729.jpg)
If you are running knobbies you don't have to worry about hydroplaning.
The 10mm difference from a 110 to a 120 is just over 3/8's of an inch on the overall cross section, not really much in my book.
Dan
Mine is the "retarded" looking one on the left with the 130, the bike on the right has the same dunlop D606 tire but in a 120.
![Smile](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/danrkfd/IMG_4642.jpg)
130
![](http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/danrkfd/IMG_4729.jpg)
If you are running knobbies you don't have to worry about hydroplaning.
The 10mm difference from a 110 to a 120 is just over 3/8's of an inch on the overall cross section, not really much in my book.
Dan
![Big Grin](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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