Was wondering if anyone knows the differences between these two creatures, Im running the N1TC on 2nd notch but was wondering if the dynojet needle is better (more power, better gas mileage etc...).
thx

 

The DynoJet needle is a little slimmer in the mid range, allowing more gas to flow. Noticeable difference in mid range response.

Ride on
Brewster

 

I can't speak for the DJ needle but the N1TC needle made it spin up sweet. I started on #3 groove but the bike would surge under part throttle. The exhaust pipe & spark plug were very sooty so I readjusted to #1 groove to lean up which fixed the problem. But alas, I missed my fuel economy & went back to the stock needle. I have attached a picture of the N1TC vs the stock N1RX. Here's my experience with a N1TC needle that I posted on a different topic last night.

I used a Keihin N1TC needle (part # 160091912), 1x clamp 920371401, 1x collar 921431667 & 1x needle jet 160171368. It pulled all the way the redline with no flat spots; the power gain was unreal. I have no snorkle on the airbox cover.

However be prepared to use more fuel. I went from 145km down to 120km before having to switch to reserve. I reverted back to the stock N1RX needle with 2x shims (part # 920221003) which gave me better mileage & good power.

 

Great picture comparison klx4me. Im running the N1TC needle on the second clip position.... i think..... maybe 3rd since the 351...

 

One thing I have found with the KLX when commuting is that fuel economy doesn't vary whether you ride it hard or otherwise.
After I rejetted & installed the N1TC, I gave it a lot of hurt & was surprised when it started spluttering after 120km. I made a deliberate effort to reduce throttle on the next tank but it didn't make any difference to the mileage. I miss the N1TC, I call it the garden hose!

 

As Brewster points out, I think the profile of the DJ needle is just more optimum for the KLX overall. I get great on road and off road mileage with my DJ needle and DJ jetting recommendations. DJ has always produced a very good needle design. I also had DJ kits in all 4 of my KLR600/650's over the years with excellent results. It makes some sense when you think about it. If you made your living selling kits like these, and they offered no benefit over OEM parts, I don't think you'd stay in business very long. They are not snake oil.

 

I have had my KLX for 3 weeks and am loving it. I bought my bike from a guy who has juggled the jets and needle and I am attempting to get back close to stock as it is my experience from previous bikes that for MPG you cannot beat a shimmed stock needle.
Is the N1TC a KLX 300 needle? I believe that he put that on this 2006.
Thanks KLX4me for info.Last question: how thick are those 2 shims each?
I'm thinking they are probably about .020" (.5 mm) each.

 

I don't know...Kawasaki has to make some notable compromises to the stock needle to achieve emissions ratings. It's not all about fuel economy, but fuel economy can often be the result of an emission acceptable needle. That said, I believe the DJ needle is the best balance of power, driveability, and fuel economy out there for the KLX. I have an OEM 300 cylinder, full Muzzy exhaust, opened/modded airbox, and a DJ kit on my '06. I easily get 60+ mpg on pavement and high 40's to mid 50's in off road conditions...and I mean real off road, not just a dirt road. I can get well over 60 on plain dirt roads. I'm running a stock #35 pilot jet, DJ needle in the 3rd groove from the top, drilled slide, Kouba screw 1.75 turns out, and a drilled starter jet. I am thoroughly pleased with the smooth throttle response, no bogging, great low rpm lugging ability, and strong WOT performance. I'm usually a mod and hopup ***** and have bought/installed many aftermarket carbs for many of my bikes over the years. I haven't been too tempted to toss this carb, as it's been relatively flawless up to this point. Power "AND" fuel economy are important to me on this bike even with a 3.7 gallon Acerbis tank. I do trips out west in remote areas and will often go 150-200 miles in a day's trek without fuel availability.

Edit: I'll also add that I run 14/47 gearing.

 

good info TNC.I keep that in mind if I jump up in displacement and exhaust change.
I put the TBR slip-on w/quiet core insert and it is still to loud for my taste and so will be putting the pea shooter stock pipe back on.
I believe the previous owner did drill the slide.I currently have a 125 Kiehin MJ and #40 pilot.I am going to put back in a kiehin#120 MJ and the stock#35 pilot. What size drill bit do you use on the starter jet as I'm sure that my good cold starting will become worse with the return of the #35 Pilot. Thanks.

 

It's an .018" bit.