Good to hear your ok. Sounds like you got a pinch flat from the first hard landing and probably didn't notice the lower tires pressure until it was to late.

 

Well I think that the tire pressure was the problem. The bike had been setting for about a week and a half due to the cold weather. This weekend was really nice and warm so I checked the chain and tightend it up a bit and topped it off with some lube, checked the lights and oil level. Skipped the tire pressure!! Did'nt even think about it!! I rode for about 15 miles before I reached the lake no problems, But like I said I hit a jump and came down on the front tire hard, then the very next jump I hit back tire touched down and then the front and then the rest of me on the left side. I'm walking with a limp this morning knee is swollen and neck is stiff..... I hate getting old. Popping motrin and not walking alot. Thanks for all the concern... I'll be okay.. I just want to know how to fix this so I dont do it again.

I thought that rim locks make your tire unbalenced? I have a D606 with the ultra heavy duty tube in therear. I have been planning on doing the same with the front, I just still have alot of tread left to go on the front.

 

I just ordered a front and back D606.

 

I wouldn't bother with a rim lock in the front, normally you will never need it, just check tyres before riding and after a heavy landing. Oh yeah make sure you leave the valve nut loose, let it come up to the cap. I keep repeating this as it is vital. I did 2 rear tubes (valve stem pulled out of tube, 1 without and 1 with a rimlock) and haven't done any since I learned to leave the nut loose. Oh and yes a rimlock will unbalace the wheel.
Cheers
Garry

 

Gary, would you mind posting a picture of what you mean by leaving the valve nut loose. I am pretty sure I know what you mean, but I want to make sure. Keep in mind, I will be doing my first ever tire change in about a week, so the answer to this question may become obvious to me once I do.

I ride on the street about 90% of the time, so I really don't want to put a rim lock on front or back because of the balance issue. If the loose nut approach can minimize the need for a rim lock, then I would rather go that route even if am still leaving myself somewhat exposed to a valve stem rippage.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Okay, thanks for all the info. I have been trying to review all the tire issues from the old posts but there are so many of them they are hard to find. If I remember right the 4 bolts on the right side on the speedo cable they are only hand tight due to them breaking off. Correct? Is there any other issues about changing out the front tire that I need to know. I am ording this to replace my old ripped stem tube, what do you think.

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As far as rim locks unbalancing a wheel, that should never happen, since they should either be installed in pairs (an thus balancing each other), or spoke weights should be added to offset the installation of a single rim lock.



Regarding installation on the front, I would say most definitely. Your front brake is the stronger of the two, and combining a hard braking situation with low tire pressure will easily spin the tire on the rim. It doesn't sound like this was your situation, GT, because your "blow-out" happened during a jump, but it's possible that minor slipping before the jump could have contributed and the jump was the "straw that broke the camel's back".

And rim locks are less than $10 each ... very cheap insurance.

The only down-side to rim locks is that it makes tire changes more of a pain ... but that is less of a pain than popping Motrin and not walking alot.

Another alternative is loosing the nuts on the valve stems, but you have to keep a very close eye on them to check if they are leaning at all - leaning means there's slippage going on, and that should be resolved right away (Deflate the tire, rotate the tire/tube so the valve stem is perpendicular to the rim, then re-inflate).

Chris, here's a photo of a valve stem nut that's not seated against the rim:


Hope you have a fast recovery, GT.

Mike

 

YYY.guy - Great info and pics, thanks.

Okay - advice time. I have been trying to do everything myself on this bike, but I am in a bit of a time crunch and I want this job done right the first time.

Here's the deal. I have an opportunity to go to a large OHV riding park this Friday (Brushy Mountain, NC). I have been intentionally waiting on my first tire change because I wanted to get every mile I could out of my stockers. Well, I want to have a good day of riding, so my new Cheng Shin C858s need to go on in the next few days. I had every intention of doing this myself, but I had not planned on doing rim locks. After reading this thread, though, it sounds like I would be foolish to miss this chance to install rim locks on front and back. Now I can go and get the locks from the dealer (I guess) and install them, but now I am concerned about the balance issue.

With that said, here are a few questions:

1. I know that there is at least one hole predrilled in our rims to accept a rim lock. Is there a corresponding hole opposite this one for installing a second rim lock for balance?
2. Since I don't do nearly as much off road riding as I would like (maybe 10%), would a better alternative for me be to install a single rim lock and have the shop balance the tires for me? It sounds like Nobrakes could tell a big difference with the wheel balancing. I ride street a lot on my bike, and I am starting to suspect that some of the gremlins I am chasing with bumping, etc. might be balance issues on the wheels. They have never been balanced unless they came that way.

Thanks for the advice. If I decide to do the job myself, then I will try to get the rim locks today and do it tonight.

 

I was planning on doing the rim locks for the tour in jan, but i wasnt sure where to get wheel weights, and such, so ill probably just keep higher pressure, worked so far for me...

 

1) the rims only come with one extra hole for rimlocks. If you wanted to install two, you would need to have one drilled . Also, the hole for the rimlocks tends to be very near the valve stem hole to offer the best possible hold for the valve stems.

2) I know that when my friend put rim locks on his DZR400 , the shop balanced the front tire and installed weights. I'm guessing that without the right equipment, that might be difficult.

Don't forget the additional option of also installing heavy duty tubes with their heavy duty valves to help on all fronts.

Hope this helps...