Motard Brakes for 09
#11
Great info there....bravo!
I'm still wondering if the stock brake line will still work or would I need to install one that's longer? I know KLX above runs the EBC on his dirt rig, I think I'd like to keep the stock one on my dirt wheels and the EBC on my street wheels.
I'm still wondering if the stock brake line will still work or would I need to install one that's longer? I know KLX above runs the EBC on his dirt rig, I think I'd like to keep the stock one on my dirt wheels and the EBC on my street wheels.
#12
Yeah, it would be awesome except I bought the KLX300 rotor about 2 months before I found that. I'll be doing a total carbon copy job of KLXer's post (btw nice job dude). I also bought a stainless steel braided line to go along with whole conversion. Its the stock length but, I'm switching out springs in the forks, stiffer and a little lower so, it should work. I believe the EBC catalog says the stock line will need to be replaced with a longer one. I mean, the stock line is another weak link in the system so, you might as well replace it. Good luck.
Matt
Matt
#13
So we need a longer brake line running from the master cylinder.. but what about the hard pipe that runs under the caliper? Wouldn't it need to be longer since we are pushing the caiper back? Can someone post all the parts we need in order to complete this modification?
#14
I believe the solid pipe part of the line and the small block made into it (with the hole and mounting bolt) just serve to make that section more rigid and less prone to damage due to its location. I wouldn't say all that is completely necessary, its not even present on the '09-'10 models because the line isn't routed under the caliper like the '07 and earlier models. If you were trying to keep the stock flexible line, you would need a longer hard pipe section of line because you are increasing the distance from the caliper to where the line mounts near the fork. I think it would be easiest, on a '07, to toss out the entire stock line (from master cylinder all the way to caliper) and replace it with a longer, braided line, maybe for a KLX300, and route it any way except down. And, if it sticks out a bit, its not that big of a problem since this set-up will be on the street rather than in the woods or in the dirt where something would be more likely to snag it.
#16
If you need a new SS braided line call or email Bill Blue at http://bandbcyclerestorations.com/
He makes them as long as you need for both the front and rear brakes. I think the front is like $55, not sure can't remember?
With the larger rotor and new brakeline it is more contolable and stops on a dime. If you go that route try stiffer springs in the front too, it will dive even worst after adding the larger rotor.
He makes them as long as you need for both the front and rear brakes. I think the front is like $55, not sure can't remember?
With the larger rotor and new brakeline it is more contolable and stops on a dime. If you go that route try stiffer springs in the front too, it will dive even worst after adding the larger rotor.
#20
The stainless line from Bill is the way to go, the hard pipe is part of the origninal brake line, and will not come off. Without changing the brake line out, the caliper relocation bracket will not work. I have done this mod, and it makes a huge difference, but you will get more front dive on braking, as stated.