Mikuni 34
#11
06-14-2007, 05:33 AM
RE: Mikuni 34
ORIGINAL: b_joannblue
Hello Hatto,
Went to Colorado to work on our property for a few days. When we got back I had lots of work weighting on me I guess thats the price you pay for playing. Will be going back to Colorado the 4 th. of july week to set up the 5 th. wheel trailer we areleaving on the property. Plan on doing some riding after the work is completed.
You might try putting the air box lid back on it seems that with the lid off it is to mutch air. Try a 140 or a 137.5 main. Did I send you a short pumper rod?
Hello Hatto,
Went to Colorado to work on our property for a few days. When we got back I had lots of work weighting on me I guess thats the price you pay for playing. Will be going back to Colorado the 4 th. of july week to set up the 5 th. wheel trailer we areleaving on the property. Plan on doing some riding after the work is completed.
You might try putting the air box lid back on it seems that with the lid off it is to mutch air. Try a 140 or a 137.5 main. Did I send you a short pumper rod?
I thought I might be a bit rich, I'm not sure about the pumper rod - how do I tell
cheers hatto
#12
06-15-2007, 12:34 PM
RE: Mikuni 34
My bike had a bunch more fuel needs than I thought. This engine loves fuel. If in doubt, go rich.I am using the HMF pipe, but I quieted it down with a Yoshimura Quiet tip I wrapped with 'glass. KDX200 big snorkle, air injection system removed, crankcase vented.. I'm running this jetting with my 34mm Bill Blue carb.
stock pilot, 37.5
tunable air screw at 2, maybe a bit more. It took some very fine adjustment to get it exactly right.
stock needle, middle position
changed the needle tube to the next bigger, to a Q-0, (huge improvement)
140 main jet.
shorter pumper rod, enables the pumper to work through the full range of throttle position.
My bike starts instantly after2 cranks on the throttle, full choke,immediately move choke to half way for 15 seconds, turn it off, real good idle results.
I highly recommend changing that needle tube. (I don't remember the accurate term. I think it's actually called the needle jet and the needle itself is called the jet needle...but I could have that backwards, too[sm=icon_guiness.gif])
I went to the next richer tube. Unscrew the MJ, set aside the little plastic piece, and the tube with a light tap should fall into the bore of the carb. It's easiest to do this with the slide removed. Be sure to align the pin with the groovewhen you re-install. Going richer on the tube allows you to use the middle notch on the needle, but still be a richer mixture from 1/8th throttleon up, and you can still do further adjustments with the needle circlip if needed. Each carb needs individual tuning depending on the other mods, to get the maximum performance you're looking for.
I also think you should keep the airbox lid in place.
We are at 1300 ft
stock pilot, 37.5
tunable air screw at 2, maybe a bit more. It took some very fine adjustment to get it exactly right.
stock needle, middle position
changed the needle tube to the next bigger, to a Q-0, (huge improvement)
140 main jet.
shorter pumper rod, enables the pumper to work through the full range of throttle position.
My bike starts instantly after2 cranks on the throttle, full choke,immediately move choke to half way for 15 seconds, turn it off, real good idle results.
I highly recommend changing that needle tube. (I don't remember the accurate term. I think it's actually called the needle jet and the needle itself is called the jet needle...but I could have that backwards, too[sm=icon_guiness.gif])
I went to the next richer tube. Unscrew the MJ, set aside the little plastic piece, and the tube with a light tap should fall into the bore of the carb. It's easiest to do this with the slide removed. Be sure to align the pin with the groovewhen you re-install. Going richer on the tube allows you to use the middle notch on the needle, but still be a richer mixture from 1/8th throttleon up, and you can still do further adjustments with the needle circlip if needed. Each carb needs individual tuning depending on the other mods, to get the maximum performance you're looking for.
I also think you should keep the airbox lid in place.
We are at 1300 ft
#13
06-15-2007, 11:47 PM
RE: Mikuni 34
Yep, it's a "needle jet" (the needle tube).
Here's some info from another post:
A couple of other folks are using the Q-0 and have reported good results. I recommend it too.
I too haven't had much luck with the airbox lid off either.
Here's some info from another post:
I'm not using a different needle, it's a different needle jet. The stock size is a P-8, the next richer size is Q-0, which I now have installed.
I got the needle jet (Mikuni P/N 784-24111-Q-0 Needle Jet 640 Series -- Sudco P/N 003-701) and other jetsfrom http://www.cyclewareables.com
There doesn't seem to be a different needle, at least I couldn't find one. I haven't done any test rides yet with the Q-0, I'll post my results in the TM33 thread once I have them.
I got the needle jet (Mikuni P/N 784-24111-Q-0 Needle Jet 640 Series -- Sudco P/N 003-701) and other jetsfrom http://www.cyclewareables.com
There doesn't seem to be a different needle, at least I couldn't find one. I haven't done any test rides yet with the Q-0, I'll post my results in the TM33 thread once I have them.
I too haven't had much luck with the airbox lid off either.
#14
06-18-2007, 01:27 AM
RE: Mikuni 34
ORIGINAL: Bake
My bike had a bunch more fuel needs than I thought. This engine loves fuel. If in doubt, go rich.I am using the HMF pipe, but I quieted it down with a Yoshimura Quiet tip I wrapped with 'glass. KDX200 big snorkle, air injection system removed, crankcase vented.. I'm running this jetting with my 34mm Bill Blue carb.
stock pilot, 37.5
tunable air screw at 2, maybe a bit more. It took some very fine adjustment to get it exactly right.
stock needle, middle position
changed the needle tube to the next bigger, to a Q-0, (huge improvement)
140 main jet.
shorter pumper rod, enables the pumper to work through the full range of throttle position.
My bike starts instantly after2 cranks on the throttle, full choke,immediately move choke to half way for 15 seconds, turn it off, real good idle results.
I highly recommend changing that needle tube. (I don't remember the accurate term. I think it's actually called the needle jet and the needle itself is called the jet needle...but I could have that backwards, too[sm=icon_guiness.gif])
I went to the next richer tube. Unscrew the MJ, set aside the little plastic piece, and the tube with a light tap should fall into the bore of the carb. It's easiest to do this with the slide removed. Be sure to align the pin with the groovewhen you re-install. Going richer on the tube allows you to use the middle notch on the needle, but still be a richer mixture from 1/8th throttleon up, and you can still do further adjustments with the needle circlip if needed. Each carb needs individual tuning depending on the other mods, to get the maximum performance you're looking for.
I also think you should keep the airbox lid in place.
We are at 1300 ft
My bike had a bunch more fuel needs than I thought. This engine loves fuel. If in doubt, go rich.I am using the HMF pipe, but I quieted it down with a Yoshimura Quiet tip I wrapped with 'glass. KDX200 big snorkle, air injection system removed, crankcase vented.. I'm running this jetting with my 34mm Bill Blue carb.
stock pilot, 37.5
tunable air screw at 2, maybe a bit more. It took some very fine adjustment to get it exactly right.
stock needle, middle position
changed the needle tube to the next bigger, to a Q-0, (huge improvement)
140 main jet.
shorter pumper rod, enables the pumper to work through the full range of throttle position.
My bike starts instantly after2 cranks on the throttle, full choke,immediately move choke to half way for 15 seconds, turn it off, real good idle results.
I highly recommend changing that needle tube. (I don't remember the accurate term. I think it's actually called the needle jet and the needle itself is called the jet needle...but I could have that backwards, too[sm=icon_guiness.gif])
I went to the next richer tube. Unscrew the MJ, set aside the little plastic piece, and the tube with a light tap should fall into the bore of the carb. It's easiest to do this with the slide removed. Be sure to align the pin with the groovewhen you re-install. Going richer on the tube allows you to use the middle notch on the needle, but still be a richer mixture from 1/8th throttleon up, and you can still do further adjustments with the needle circlip if needed. Each carb needs individual tuning depending on the other mods, to get the maximum performance you're looking for.
I also think you should keep the airbox lid in place.
We are at 1300 ft
will have to look at the needle, I havn't looked at it, it is just as bill supplied to me, I'm not much of a mech but am slowly learning thanks to guys like yourself and bill and others, your help is totally appreciated. I haven't been on a full ride yet so will try first before changing.
cheers hatto
#15
06-18-2007, 01:51 AM
RE: Mikuni 34
Hi all,
Dumb question from a dumbarse but can you help, When bill sent me the carb he had a few instructions which worked a treat, he also said
"Plug the vacuum line that goes to the fresh air exhaust vent not needed" Where and what is this, Is this something only on the 250 or is this on the carb
Also Hot start button/switch, Is there a place for one of these on the carb or am I fitting to the airbox and mannafold as per planet klx
Has anyone done a home made job, if so how - those drd and zip ty are $150.00 here in oz
cheers hatto
Dumb question from a dumbarse but can you help, When bill sent me the carb he had a few instructions which worked a treat, he also said
"Plug the vacuum line that goes to the fresh air exhaust vent not needed" Where and what is this, Is this something only on the 250 or is this on the carb
Also Hot start button/switch, Is there a place for one of these on the carb or am I fitting to the airbox and mannafold as per planet klx
Has anyone done a home made job, if so how - those drd and zip ty are $150.00 here in oz
cheers hatto
#18
06-19-2007, 10:33 PM
RE: Mikuni 34
Thanks tremor, thought that might be the case
Garry, No I have an 02 300, which I think are set up a little different to the 250,s here in oz.
So the surging I have is obviously from a little to much air, but if I fit the airbox lid back on, isn't this going to restrict the air flow again -which is what we are all trying not to do
cheers hatto
Garry, No I have an 02 300, which I think are set up a little different to the 250,s here in oz.
So the surging I have is obviously from a little to much air, but if I fit the airbox lid back on, isn't this going to restrict the air flow again -which is what we are all trying not to do
cheers hatto
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