Hi
I looked today at the mesh in the airbox and couldn't figure out how to remove it. How do you do it guys? Just cut it out or there is more elegant way? Another question - is there any real improvement when you remove the mesh? Thanks..

 

Not sure on the improvement but ya I just cut mine out with a knife and then sucked out any of the leftover wires with a shop vac

 

From what I read and hear, it's a real PITA to remove. Recommendations were to take the screen out (there are 3 screws holding it in) and cut it out. From what I could tell, the performance improvements were minimal if any and not enough to justify me going through all that work. My bike runs just fine with an aftermarket filter, airbox lid removed and the backfire mesh still installed. Maybe others can chime in on their stories about the removal.

Cheers,

Anthony

 

You're going to get some differing opinions on this. I've seen a KX450F guy post dyno results with and without the screen on T-Talk. There wasn't a half horsepower difference in his posted results. On my '01 KLR650 with pipe, jetting, K&N filter, and airbox top mods, I had to go up one main jet size when I cut the screen out of mine...hardly a dyno test but it did get slight detonation after removing the screen without upping the main jet.

I think it comes down to the individual bike and airbox design to begin with, so there's probably not a definitive answer. My guess would be that a KX450F starts with a better and bigger flow design in the airbox than my KLR650 did, but hey...how does one qualify that exactly? It costs nothing to unbolt the screen mount on the KLX and cut out the screen, so I don't lay in bed at night worrying about gobs of lost power from the screen being in there...LOL!

And on a serious note, bikes burning to the ground because of screen removal only seem to occur in one out of every three bikes. Just kidding of course.

 

But it does happen...a guy here in town posted on a locals forum his mishap last fall with a backfire that started the screenless airbox on fire. Luckily he was in his garage with tools and extinguisher at hand or he said it likely would have been the big burn down.

 

TNC is correct, you're going to get a range of answers on this. In my opinion, when trying to eek every last ounce of power out of your bike, start with the easiest/cheapest mods that give you the biggest power boost. Although removing the mesh is "free" if you don't count the time and grazed knuckles it takes to do it, the perfromance increase is questionable.

Personally, if I had to buy the KLX and start again from scratch, I would not bother with removing the backfire screen in the airbox. Hope that helps

 

because sucking out from a vacume, there is no air turbulence going towards the mesh, there is NO difference in flow... if you try to blow positive pressure air with turbulence I would say there would be a difference such as a spark arrestor

 

It does add a little bit in most of the stuff I've done it with, you must have the freeist flowing AC also or your are wasting your time. As far as fires go, I've never seen one and the guy who does my difficult wrenching, long time Honda guy hasn't either. But it is like TNC said your trying to gain that last 1/2 to 2 hp or so, so it isn't worth it for most people.

 

I set out to do it once a while back. I couldn't get a wrench or socket on the bottom nut that holds the screen in so I quit. When I had the engine apart for the 351 it looked like a piece of cake to get the air box out which would let me dis assemble the whole air box and get at the screen. The air box was in fact, a giant pain in the a$$ to get out. I got it out and made a project out of removing the screen. I cant tell you if it made a significant difference or not thought since the next time i fired up the bike it had a hundred more cc's I wouldn't mess with it unless you are really bored or you already have the bike apart and the air box is right there.
Just curious, How does the screen prevent an air filter from catching fire? The fire can pass through the screen.
Dan

 

I ground the correct size phillips head bit down to about 1/4" tall. I super glued it to a metal handle, thin, about 3" long and 1/4" wide. Finally could reach the bottom screws. Now the good part. After I busted them loose I could turn them by pressing my finger onto the screw top and turn them out that way. I didn't even try to replace the screws. I siloconed it back in figuring I will never have to remove it again.