Mechanically disabled KLX owner asks for help with re-jet
#1
Mechanically disabled KLX owner asks for help with re-jet
Hello, I have been interested in supping up my KLX for quite awhile, and have the FMF Powercore Slip-on and Powerbomb header picked out, but I'm quite apprehensive about the carb re-jet. Being that I am about on the same level as a Neanderthal as far as mechanical knowledge goes, I was wondering whether I should fork up $200 bucks to pay somebody to put in new jets, or if I could handle it myself. Any feedback regarding the complexity of re-jetting is appreciated, and I was also wondering what sort of jets I should buy, stage 1 or stage 2?
#3
just one dj jet kit...you selrct the jet size for the different "stage"...can be easy ...can be trial and error head scratcher if you select the bigger jet sizes...a/f adjustments get lot more sensitive...
#5
DIY. It's a little frustrating removing and reinstalling the carb but not $200 worth of frustration. The shop will have it done in 1/2 - 1 hour including removing and replacing the tank, shrouds, etc.
DIY and understand the system. There are outstanding tutorials on here that will help you with everything of this nature. Plus, the natives are quick to respond to any issues you may encounter.
If they quoted you $200 for rejetting a thumper.... look for another shop. An inline 4 - maybe, including the price of the kit.
DIY and understand the system. There are outstanding tutorials on here that will help you with everything of this nature. Plus, the natives are quick to respond to any issues you may encounter.
If they quoted you $200 for rejetting a thumper.... look for another shop. An inline 4 - maybe, including the price of the kit.
#6
Hello, I have been interested in supping up my KLX for quite awhile, and have the FMF Powercore Slip-on and Powerbomb header picked out, but I'm quite apprehensive about the carb re-jet. Being that I am about on the same level as a Neanderthal as far as mechanical knowledge goes, I was wondering whether I should fork up $200 bucks to pay somebody to put in new jets, or if I could handle it myself. Any feedback regarding the complexity of re-jetting is appreciated, and I was also wondering what sort of jets I should buy, stage 1 or stage 2?
I broke it up to two days. I did the tear-down after work on a Friday which took a couple of hours. I then did the carb and reassembled the following morning and had it fired up in under an hour. The hardest part is getting the carb out. The rest is doable.
#7
Thanks for the feedback, I was mostly worried that I wouldn't be able to make the proper adjustments. Everyone talks about the amount of turns on some sort of screw for the fuel and air mixture. Is this explained in whatever manual comes with the jets?
#8
viking:
See the pilot idle mixture screw in the pic below? It will be covered with a cap that needs to be removed. I removed by drilling VERY CAREFULLY a small hole in the cap, then threading a wood screw in a little ways and pulling the plug out. DO NOT drill too far!
Adjust this screw to affect the idle/pilot fuel/air mix. Out (counter clockwise) is more fuel. We typically turn in first and LIGHTLY seat the screw, counting revolutions as you do this, to identify where the screw was first set (typically around 1 turn or a little more out is stock setting). Then back out to where you want it (e.g. two turn out may work for you).
This isn't the same exact carb, but it is close:
Good reading:
Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb
You can download the jet manual from dynojet and read for yourself. I don't recall if it said anything about the mix screw.
See the pilot idle mixture screw in the pic below? It will be covered with a cap that needs to be removed. I removed by drilling VERY CAREFULLY a small hole in the cap, then threading a wood screw in a little ways and pulling the plug out. DO NOT drill too far!
Adjust this screw to affect the idle/pilot fuel/air mix. Out (counter clockwise) is more fuel. We typically turn in first and LIGHTLY seat the screw, counting revolutions as you do this, to identify where the screw was first set (typically around 1 turn or a little more out is stock setting). Then back out to where you want it (e.g. two turn out may work for you).
This isn't the same exact carb, but it is close:
Good reading:
Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb
You can download the jet manual from dynojet and read for yourself. I don't recall if it said anything about the mix screw.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 10-16-2012 at 04:07 AM. Reason: pilot idle mix screw - NOT pilot jet
#9
Instructions are here. They are the same for the S or SF http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2152.pdf
#10
My klx was the first vacuum carb I had experience with and it was a very easy process... though I've rebuilt a zillion small engine carbs/diaphragm carbs.
Just drill the plug first... the manual instructs to do it after you remove the bowl which is just plain dumb.
Just drill the plug first... the manual instructs to do it after you remove the bowl which is just plain dumb.