MCM check
#3
Yes - you've done it correctly - assuming the engine crank did not rotate at any time during the session, you should be good to go...
Good job on marking the cams (each with two yellow lines).. As your marks point out, the end result of the MCM is that both cams are rotated toward each other slightly (approximately 10 degrees)..
Test the engine carefully before touching the start button.. If it checks out, start it up to idle for the last check of possible problems..
Now, as I've said on the other thread, yank off the airbox lid, reprogram your EJK for lidless running and then add 1 to the midrange fueling... with this done, and if the chinabomb performs as well as a powerbomb, you now have a 25hp KLX that pulls hard from 3500 - 10,500 rpm !!!!!!!
Remember to hang on tight !
Good job on marking the cams (each with two yellow lines).. As your marks point out, the end result of the MCM is that both cams are rotated toward each other slightly (approximately 10 degrees)..
Test the engine carefully before touching the start button.. If it checks out, start it up to idle for the last check of possible problems..
Now, as I've said on the other thread, yank off the airbox lid, reprogram your EJK for lidless running and then add 1 to the midrange fueling... with this done, and if the chinabomb performs as well as a powerbomb, you now have a 25hp KLX that pulls hard from 3500 - 10,500 rpm !!!!!!!
Remember to hang on tight !
Last edited by Klxster; 12-19-2019 at 11:00 PM.
#4
Yes - you've done it correctly - assuming the engine crank did not rotate at any time during the session, you should be good to go...
Good job on marking the cams (each with two yellow lines).. As your marks point out, the end result of the MCM is that both cams are rotated toward each other slightly (approximately 10 degrees)..
Test the engine carefully before touching the start button.. If it checks out, start it up to idle for the last check of possible problems..
Now, as I've said on the other thread, yank off the airbox lid, reprogram your EJK for lidless running and then add 1 to the midrange fueling... Remember to hang on tight !
Good job on marking the cams (each with two yellow lines).. As your marks point out, the end result of the MCM is that both cams are rotated toward each other slightly (approximately 10 degrees)..
Test the engine carefully before touching the start button.. If it checks out, start it up to idle for the last check of possible problems..
Now, as I've said on the other thread, yank off the airbox lid, reprogram your EJK for lidless running and then add 1 to the midrange fueling... Remember to hang on tight !
#5
I keep a thin coat of WD-40 on the engine so it stays clean longer and cleans up super easy. I have always don't that on all my bikes.
#7
[QUOTE=Klxster;548183]Rickybobby2, how bout a sit rep on your modding efforts or results..?[/QUO
The bike is running great. I definitely can tell a difference as it accelerates to 60 mph very quickly. However I think I still need to dial in the fuel on the EJK. The bike still will not power wheelie in 1st, and wheelie power in second is about the same. It is as if it bogs down. I am going to try different fuel settings but would gladly try any suggested settings.
The bike is running great. I definitely can tell a difference as it accelerates to 60 mph very quickly. However I think I still need to dial in the fuel on the EJK. The bike still will not power wheelie in 1st, and wheelie power in second is about the same. It is as if it bogs down. I am going to try different fuel settings but would gladly try any suggested settings.
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