Well, you can call me anything you want, just don't call me late for dinner or last call...

But if you look back you will see I never cut and pasted anything. I just explained how Mikuni labels their jets. What the numbers actually mean. And the part I talked about is the pilot jet on any breakdown of the parts. I think what some consider the starter jet (Mikuni has no starter jet listed) is actually the air jet and is a small pressed or screwed in jet orifice in the bell mouth of the carburetor. The pilot jets have been called pilot jets for as long as I've been dealing with carburetors and probably a fair amount of time before that. They meter the gas from the float bowl, which I am sure you and most folks know.

Last comment - any Mikuni jetting diagram about what circuit affects what part of the throttle travel will show that the pilot jet and idle mix screw affect the engine from idle up to about 1/4 throttle opening, blending it's effects into the effects of the throttle valve (aka slide cut away on a cable pull slide carb and butterfly on a CV carb) from about 1/8 and tapering out at about 1/4 throttle. That diagram has been a constant in both the Sudco and GEM Mikuni tuning pamphlets and catalogs for the last four decades per what I've seen in the shop and the trade shows. But I still never cut and pasted it anywhere.

But I may as well cut and paste one now. Here it is now for the cable pull slide carb, in this case the flat slide, but the circuits work essentially the same, just the lifting of the slide is different:



They used the same diagram in all the files I looked at. If you don't believe it, check Mikuni themselves. Here's the link so you can see exactly where it comes from:

Mikuni American Corporation

Pick any carb from the list and download the file. all essentially have the same diagram.

So now I posted a chart and it most likely is factual since it is from the company that makes the carbs. If Mikuni's humans screwed up they did it about forty years ago, like they're saying "that's our story and we're sticking to it" still today. That'd take a lot of guts to hose everyone up on jetting for over four decades. But my gut instinct tells me they're right...

All this because I made a part that helped a guy that had a note in his signature that might be a bit questionable. Talk about side tracking a thread. But it was fun and informative.

 

Fun indeed. I read way too much today about carbs. Here's a virtual beer to klx678! Thanks for the quality manual tensioner. I'd offer you a real beer, but a dollar says it would be warm by the time it got across Lake Erie.

 

I wasn't talking to you.

 

The sidetrack was my fault. I hoped it would just be a quick fix for the OP and not a sidetrack but at least I now know that my pilot jet is super dinky.

On that tensioner, I do hope to someday acquire one. I don't like noisy engines when they should be quiet.

 

Then learn to go back and rewrite your post. According to the quote and the paragraph below it you appear rather clearly to be insinuating I was doing some cutting and pasting. A simple modification would have changed the meaning.

It's not hard, you can cut and paste things to make it work...

 

Better to have a super dinky pilot jet than a super dinky dinky!


As for the tensioner, remember if it ain't broke don't fix it. Unless you do have rattling there, you don't need it. The failure isn't catastrophic, you have a couple hundred miles to deal with the tensioner before it is possibly doing any sort of wear and damage, but I'd get it done within 500 miles of noting the noise. You can listen to the cam drive with either a mechanic's stethoscope or by putting the tip of a screwdriver with the handle to your ear to listen to the area around the tensioner. You will know if the noise is there if it is loudest there. Although usually it is pretty obvious.