dash, you should be relatively close with those numbers you started with. You really shouldn't need much more than tweaking. Usually this involves a main jet move or a pilot/air jet change. The needle clip, of course is relatively easy to change since you don't have to pull the carb. Don't be tempted to make wide, multiple changes or you'll end up chasing your tail.

 

Good advice.... Kinda figure I'm close.... Now would just needle jet 1 notch richer be sufficient......

Ya, I'm bored today lol

 

If you raise the needle by one clip notch...should be the #4 notch...it will be richer in what is mostly the mid-range performance range of the carb. Of course, there is some overlap from about 1/8th throttle to just about WOT.

 

I'd like to also point out that the needle jet (p6 / p4) had an impact on the fueling across all RPM's and loads - verified with an AFR gauge. The p6 and p4 leaned out the bike from 1/8'th throttle all the way to redline @ WOT.

 

So finally had time to remove plug after a few hours riding..it's definitely running lean..

So either I drop a notch or put P6 back in (P4 now)...

Any thoughts on which one first?

 

And if I put the P6 back in should I also go with the 132.5 main jet?


Thanks

 

To richen up I'd raise the needle one notch first. It's relatively easy to do the needle tune as opposed to the needle jet as you can do it with the carb in place.

 

I'm going to be pulling her apart to check valves and timing so just figured I'd pull the carb too and do it all....

 

Dash, I'm curious as to how you determined "leaness" on the spark plug. These days with unleaded fuels and especially those with ethanol, it's darned near impossible to read plugs and carb jetting like we used to unless the carb is way, way out...black, sooty plug or so white as to start seeing white ash under magnification that even shows bits of aluminum. Race gas and such still allow plug reads, but you pretty much have to go by drivability across the throttle range to tweak perfect fueling. Yes, you can use exhaust gas monitoring devices, but even these can "fool" you a bit with what show to be optimum readings that don't provide the most pleasant drivability response. They are very helpful to get you very close, if not exact, when you're starting from scratch and "in the dark" on an untested setup. With the TM36 we have a decently long period of setups that work very well, so really all we have to do is tweak to fit a particular bike, location, and use application.

 

Well, the plug is bone white, hotter than expected exhaust, and popping/backfire on deceleration are pointing me towards it being lean..i consider what I'm doing now to be tweaking... obviously I'd be closer with and AFR, but for now I'm winging it