I'm 5'6" with a 29-30" inseam. Yes I'm short and I'm tired of my biker buddies making fun of my stumpy legs when I ride. So, I'm interested in lowering the KLX.

I've performed most of the mods, i.e. removed the air valve/smog stuff and plugged air box and carb, drilled crankcase hole to 3/8", removed the snorkel (wont start with lid off [sm=smiley24.gif] ), drilled the exhaust 1/2", changed main jet to 125, changed to adjustable needle w/clip in position two, drilled slide 7/64", reset suspension settings to stock specs (they were NOT correct, front forks weren’t even set the same), reset fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out and I always use premium fuel. I've also thought about the HMF slip-on, but still have the stock pipe. I’ve put almost 1400 miles on it since I bought it last April and now I'm ready to really use it this season.

Do the Kouba links require kickstand modification? I've tried adjusting the rear spring and it sags more, but another 2" would make it perfect. I know some of you might suggest that a welder can take care of it in no time, but as I know no welders, that's not an option. As for the suspension, I'd like to return the spring to its original position. I can't justify aftermarket springs/forks since I barely leave the ground when I hit the trails. I'd like to just lower it a tad and then try to be content!

Anybody familiar with this issue?

Thanks!

 

welcome mrphone,

Two lowering thoughts. there are lowering links on ebay (search lowering links klx250s) $19 + $6 shipping.
I had my seat foam shaved 1/2 the height by an indepedent upholsterer $35 found in the yellow pages.

 

I lowered my bike 1.25 inches with the Kouba links. The kick stand works fine for me. 2 inches and you might have to cut down the kick stand. After you install the lowering linksI would cut the base plate off the kick stand and then measure to the desired length and cut it. Then bring it to your local weldor mechanic shop and have them weld it up. I used to do some welding at work and its only a 5min. job. I cant see them charging more than 20 bucks to weld it.. lets us know how you make out..

 

I'm the same height and inseam as you. I picked mine up April 06 and the height was intimidating to me at first but I've gotten used to it. That being said if I get leaned a bit too much (doesn't take much) I reach the point of no return quickly and have to lay the bike down, step off and pick it back up. I went with the $19 1" lowering link and it made it somewhat easier to swing my leg over to initially get on and about 3/4 of my foot is flat on both sides sitting stationary with boots on. I haven't lowered the front yet but I think I will be close to flat footing when I drop the front an inch by sliding the forks up.........after I install the bar risers to make clearance for the fork tubes.

For what its worth I generally ride with thick soled steel toe workboots, sometime next week I should be picking up my Fox Offroad (regular lug sole, not smooth mx style) Trackers and we'll see how they compare when sitting on the bike.

 

I'm 5' 7" wouldn't have a clue about inseam, lets just say I have ducks disease. I lowered mine using the 2" links on ebay and went for my first trail ride today. Being lower was fantastic I would probably have dropped the bike once or twice without them. HOWEVER I didn't set sag etc and it bottomed out on almost everything. So go ahead and get the links but remember to set the sag. I might try the 1" next time (I bought both) then again I probably need heavier spring too cause of my weight.

P.S. I didn't shorten my sidestand I'm careful where I park it though

Cheers

 

Setting sag will probably help, but you've shortened the travel of your suspension by installing the lowering links. I would definitely go with a stouter spring.

 

Hey guys, I just checked out the lowering links on E-bay. Would these hold up OK as they are aluminum? Are the stock links steel or aluminum? Thanks.

 

They make them out of aluminum all the time, even factory ones.

The thing is they mess with the leverage on the shock through the entire stroke, this is a a side effect, so that is why theymay bottom more.

 

Actually the stock ones are steel

 

Ya, on the KLX but they make links out of aluminum all the time, even the OEMs.