So I popped the top off this evening to take a look at what I feared was a lot of abuse.

Here's a pic of the head


I then took a close look at the cylinder and piston top and this is what it looked like. Mucho carbon build-up.


I took some time and a scotch-brite pad and this is what they look like now. I removed 90% of the carbon build-up with an old plastic credit card, lol. The rest came off with the scotch-brite pad.




The cylinder is smooth as glass and I can't find any flat spots or any "scratches". The marks from honing the cylinder are still present. but I saw this spot. It looks less like scratching than a discoloration, to me anyway.


One thing I noticed is that if I picture the top of the piston as a clock face, and I put my finger on the 3o'clock position and rock it up and down (towards 2 o'clock position and 4 o'clock position) I see the tiniest amount of slop. That is to say the piston will "rotate" or "spin", or whatever term you want to use, about a 32th of an inch. (it's a very very minimal rotation)

I see the piston is stamped with the following information:

B00D2
and
677M06800

Now some questions:

Any suggestion where I can find out what the numbers stand for?

If I need to replace the piston and rings I need to know what to look for and I have no idea what those numbers above mean because I'm not familiar with these Yammys.

Based on what I posted and you see, do you think it's time for re-plating the cylinder?

Oh...and I was thinking of doing something with the following picture for my graphics, but I don't have the software to photoshop some mock-ups

I'd like to add a scyth and red, glowing eyes to it. If you know anyone who knows photoshop could you hook a brutha up?

 

So while I have the engine apart, I decided to do some measurements of the bottom end. It's out of spec by .25

As a result, I decided to purchase a new crank assembly and main bearings.

I shipped the cylinder off to be replated yesterday evening. It should be back in a few weeks.

The local cycle shop said they'd do all the work on the bottom end (when my new crank assembly and main bearings arrive) for $200

Considering that the mechanic is going to have to split the case, extract the old bearings, press in the new ones, install the Oil seals and install the crank and then button it all up, I think $200 is pretty reasonable. I'd do it myself, but I have no specialized tools or press and, quite frankly, I just don't have the time.

The graphics are only "okay" looking, but they'll do for me for now anyway.

Still far from done, but getting there (slowly, and more expensively than I wanted)

 

I got some parts today. Yay!

You can see my Cycra 3.7gallon tank and the new air box assembly in the back


My Flywheel is not a Moose, as I had thought. It's a Stahley


Here's a shot of the piston skirt area as taken from the intake port. I can feel those scratches. Not good!


More Parts!



If you look at the exploded view below, I basically ordered all of it! Well, I already have the Wiseco piston kit so I just ordered Parts 6, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17.

 

Man that bike is gonna be off the hook.....do they still say off the hook? What about the bomb, is that still accepted? Ok how about this. That motorcycle is going to be nifty.......forget it I give up. Nice job man. Now I want a project. I'm thinking of one of those old trail 70's from back in the day. I've also been looking at the Honda CRF 150 for the kid. I can pick up a mint 2003-2006 for around $1500 now. I have some money saved, all I need is $1499 more.

 

Someone on TT suggested I slap an hour meter on it and sell it as new, lol.

 

It's been a long day but I have made some progress so far.

The cylinder was shipped off to Millennium Technologies for replating and came back Friday
The bottom end rebuild (all new crank assembly and all bottom end bearings) was also completed Friday.




All the ports are chamfered perfectly


I painted some of the case parts (Clutch case and Water Pump Cover) with Duplicolor Wheel Paint (man, that **** POPS!)



I moved the Air Box splash guard over from the old Air Box to the new one and riveted it in


Then I installed the clutch and front brake levers and Master Cylinder and ran the Throttle and Clutch Cables and started throwing plastics onto it

 

Engine is complete! (Finally)

That's all new bearings, seals, O-Rings in the case, Crank, connecting rod, Piston kit, gaskets, clutch, RAD Valve reeds, etc

 

So I get my Cylinder stud holes tapped today (and the 1 Power Valve cover hole) so I decide to put the engine back together.

After I complete the process of reassembling the motor, I start gathering up all the carboard boxes I had stuff in because I have a tiny area in which to work and it's already too cluttered.

As I am emptying boxes into the trash I grab the box I had the engine in when I took it to Fletch's to get the crank assembly installed.

In the bottom of the box is this piece



To me, it looks like the little collar spacers that go into a side number plate to help hold it securely, however, I decide to check the parts fiche just to be on the safe side.

As I am looking through the fiches, I notice on the Shift Shaft fiche, part 10


Screw me in the *** and call me Judy! Sure enough, it's missing from where it is supposed to be



This part is not a part I ever touched in my work. It is a part that Fletch left out when he reassembled the cases. I didn't even have a socket that would allow me to remove the clutch basket in order to even access this part.

So it's 11pm, Autozone is not open, I need to get this damn motor buttoned up, and I'm unsure how to get that part in.

I decided to push the shift shaft (where the lever connects) towards the clutch side to see if there is enough "wiggle room" to slip that spacer back into the place it is supposed to be residing.

Luckily enough, there is "barely" enough room. I mean there is probably less than 1mm of extra space.

I grab an old spring from a watercooling heatsink that I had on one of my old watercooled computers and I straighten it out and use some masking tape to hold the collar to the spring.

I slip it in and over top of the shaft it is supposed to be on, and then reconnect the shift shaft over it.



Now the motor is buttoned up, for the SECOND time today. This time with all the parts!

 

Looks great! I can't wait to see how the final product looks and more importantly, RUNS!

 

Time to paint the hubs and re-lace onto the Black Pro-Wheel hoops
What you cannot see in pic #1 is the 7 layers of duct tape that PO used instead of a $2 Rim Band. *sigh*
(I had to fill in a lot of the background because my camera created HUGE files)


Nasty. Needs to be brightened up


I had already put in new bearings front & back before I decided to do a full-on restoration so I didn't wanna take the chance of damaging them by removing them to mediablast the hubs)

That's better! (you can see my home made bearing caps, which worked like a champ to keep the paint out!)


Next up is the Flying Spaghetti Monster post! (I hope I'm touched by His noodly appendage)