There has been quite the debate over it and to be honest I'm on the fence. I guess I always choose grease because that the safe method but I'm sure that some antisieze work well as a lubricant.

 

I've seen some anti seize discussions rise to the level of oil threads. Maybe the problem is that even within the Anti-Seize Technology Inc. company's inventory there are about 10 different elemental compounds. If you dig around a bit in other supplier's offerings, there are even more to add to that list. I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I haven't researched all of them. But I'd bet that some are better lubricants than others, and some are probably not. Still, I think most of the stuff like Permatex 133K is the most prevalent compound that most of us find at auto supply stores and seems to fit most of the general needs that we use anti-seize for. It is definitely classified as a lubricant in addition to its primary function as an anti-galling and anti-corrosion protectant...and up to extremely high temps, like about 1600F.

I've been using this model compound for automotive, motorcycle, bicycle, and tons of other uses since I first used it on a set of Champion spark plug threads for a 409 cu.in. Chevy V8 in a '57 Chevy 210. Been using it ever since in all manner of applications...many not recommended...but without negative results. A weird one was on the first Kawasaki Uni-Trak design that used those fairly large heim joints on the linkage arms...on a '79 KDX175 BTW. Several of us were racing these bikes in the state enduro circuit, and the heim joints on these were a PITA to keep serviced. They had these cute little rubber booties that were near useless in harsh enduro conditions. Grease didn't last long because the design just didn't alloy much grease to be applied and/or stick around...until a later design provided a grease zerk servicing. Grease also attracted tons of dirt, grit, and dust. I applied as healthy a dose of this version of anti-seize as I could. I don't think anti-seize is really recommended for this application. Still, my heim joints stayed smoother longer, attracted less grit, and lasted longer before developing the inevitable slop and needing replacement than any of my other buddies. I have similar experiences with other machinery of all kinds and anti-seize.

Now...if this hasn't turned this discussion into an oil thread, I'd be highly disappointed.

 

OP here. Pulled swingarm shaft this afternoon.. took more effort than it should have, and that was because it was corroded badly. White powder on the entire shaft. Not a drop of grease.

The lower motor mount/linkage bolt came out much easier - no corrosion - but it also had no grease.

Once an axle is corroded and the finish is removed.. is it best to replace the part or should I just grease it up and run with it? New axle is about $30 but I'll be glad to pay that price if it means increased longevity (with grease of course).

 

Your talking wheel axle? I would buff it up and if it's looks ok where the wheel bearings sit I would reuse it. Take a pic so we can look and judge it.

 

No. The PO greased the wheel axle and two dogbone bolts (surprise). Those look OK.

There are two larger shafts close to the linkage. The lower one runs through the motor and linkage pivot. The upper one is for the swingarm (and is the one that is badly corroded).

Left my phone in the shop and am already in bed. Will post up the pic tomorrow.

 

Yeah, not unusual for the wheel axle, swingarm pivot, or linkage bolts to get that corrosion when untreated. I've seen some have to be hammered out. At the motorcycle shop I worked at part time, one time we had to stick a Husky frame in the shop press to push the swingarm pivot bolt/shaft out...and it would not push out...initially. We sprayed WD40 and other penetrant on the whole mess and left it in the press with pressure applied overnight. In the AM, the frame and backing blocks were about 15' from the press...but the shaft did come out...LOL! True story. Anti-seize is your friend. Oddly, most of these bolts/shafts can be reused after a little light wiring brushing...with some anti-seize applied, of course. If you feel a really noticeable low spot at the bearing race contact points, then you replace.

 

Here's the corroded shaft. Powder was relatively thick. I ordered a new one last night so at the very worse I'll have a spare.

 

I would reuse that.

 

Yeah, I'd use that too. The once-in-a-blue-moon case that I've seen is when a swingarm pivot bolt, wheel axle, etc. needed replacement was where the interface at the bearing races/contact points were corroded to the point of seizure and got hammered to the point there were dents and noticeable irregularities at those points. It's rare to get to that stage, but it can happen. The shaft in that pic looks fine.