will the klx 250s battery power these fog lights? they are led.

Denali D4 Flood & Spot Hybrid LED Auxiliary Lighting Kit with Full Wiring Harness & M8 Mount - TwistedThrottle.com

they draw 3 amps per pair. on 12VDC.

they make a mount for the KLR that fits under the fender for these lights but I was thinking about mounting them with the universal mount that puts them on the fork.

also does anyone have a led lamp?

this is the super bright led lamp from lifetime lamps

https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/le...orcycle_lights

its suppose to be brighter than hids, I've seen the video of one in a motorcycle and its really bright!

signal dynamics is suppose to come out with a headlight modulator that can strobe leds by the end of this year, if I didn't already have a harness from signal dynamics for my stock lamp, I would go on and get this led from lifetime led.

 

Save your money and get your some $30 led lights. When you end up breaking them you wont be pissed you spent $300 on them. If they crap out after a season they are only another $30 to replace. As for the klx powering them, not a problem since they are led.

I am in the process of replacing my headlight with 2 8" led light bars. Here is a rough mockup. Need to start cutting my brackets.

 

The way I see it, leds should be offered or installed on all newer motorbikes and vehicles. On some import cars you have the option to have HIDs (which use xenon gas and give a blueish color and have to warm up so to speak. or LEDs which are instant on/off bright as day. In a side by side video comparison of HIDs vs H4 vs LEDs, LEDs were the brightest. Yea LEDs have to have a fan motor to cool the bulb, but that kind of speaks for itself in terms of how much power and heat the bulb is putting out.
I like the setup you have On your bike, if only my stock light was that bright for nighttime driving, very clever idea.

 

I installed this replacement H4 bulb in the stock housing:

3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight

They also have a smaller 3600 lumen bulb.

Both are significantly brighter than a halogen bulb.

 

The battery isn't the question, it's the stator. The stator supplies the current and the battery collects it and reserves it for later use. So, if you use more power than the stator puts out you'll be drawing down the battery. It'll work but not forever. The stator is your paycheck the battery is your bank account.

The KLX has between 70-80 watts of excess power. So the bike would likely power those lamps without drawing down the battery. Do get amps divide the watts by volts. This works out to around 6 spare amps.

A stock headlight draws 55/60 watts lo/hi. Many LED headlights are 20/40 in their draw. So that will put 20-35 watts back into the kitty, giving you 90- 115 spare watts. The Opt 7 I used lists its draw at 30 watts, both hi and low I guess. I found the quality to be good and the install simple.

Tail lights are 8 watts. Most LED tail lights are going to be 2 watts at most. You could probably pick up a couple more watts replacing the tail light with an LED is cheap and easy. Mine cost just $5.50 for two shipped from China. it's hasn't rattled apart yet as others I have used did. So, you'd pick up another 5 free watts there. Plus you'll get the cool blinking feature on the brakes. Any running like you replace with LED will save some power.

For what it's worth I think the LED headlight offers greater brightness and color. So, even without your additional lights you'd see better.

+1 on the cheaper LED spot lights. If you're going off road, you'll crash them into pieces. The new cheap LED spots are pretty good. Some I picked up are machined AL with nice bright lights. If you're doing them for bling factor then my argument is moot. Those are the sort of thing you'd usually see on a $25,000 BMW GS. In that case it's called farkeling and it's mostly about con****uous spending. There are better things to spend money on that expensive lights.

If you're using extra lights to see the power of the extra lights matter. If you're using them to be seen then just about any low power light will will do. Many BMW guys make the "triangle" with their lights so they can be seen better.



For what it's worth I am a fan of direct to battery regulator rectifier (RR) mods. Once I get the right connectors I'll do this on the KLX. Basically, as set up now the KLX charges the battery by pushing excess power though the harness. You can direct wirethe RR to the battery and it makes charging more efficient, causes the rectifier to run cooler. This is usually a good mod all around. I've never had a problem with an RR after doing this. You will also see a higher measured voltage across the battery. Basically, it's just bigger wires run from RR to the battery with an inline fuse. The RR mods are all good from what I can see.

 

I say +1 on the cheap LED's. I have about $20 worth of LED's on my bike.

Here's a video of the lights going out (loose connection - my fault, not the lights) on a bridge - gives you an idea of how much difference there is:
I have a $10 5 LED spot light, and 6 individual LED flood lights. 5 spots on a switch, 4 floods on a switch, and 2 floods on a switch. That way I can ramp up/down the lighting I need. If I get stuck in the middle of the woods at night with a breakdown, or just need a break, I can turn on just the 2 LED's to get some light without much strain on the battery. I'm guessing I could run those 2 LED's all night without draining the battery. Can't say that for a halogen headlight.