These last couple pages are hilarious, OCD meets **** and spawns Over Analyze LOL.. I have two of these tensioners one on the klx and one on the zrx. Followed the instructions both work great. I did also worry about overtightening, adjusted them while running, not worried anymore. Carry on.....

 

I did my cold adjust by "finger tight". Makes a little noise when cold but nothing when it's warmed up. Good enough for me.

 

If you can get 8-10 inch/lb finger tightening I do NOT want to shake hands with you. That or I must be a total wimp. With a 15mm socket on my beam style torque wrench and a full on hand grip around the socket I could not get the indicator to even move... not an inch, not at all!


Those generalities must be another of those "if it's on the internet it has to be true" things.

Let us know your "Sears experience", please.

 

Can you say "virtually perfect"? After all, that is exactly what you want and did.

 

Yeah, it is kind of fun though.

 

Installed mine today and I love it !

Thanks Mark

 

At 3600 miles, my KLX is turning into a rattletrap. First at 550 and now as low as 4200rpm. I guess we need to fix this eh? PM to klx678.

 

Mine started to get the rattle again and as I posted here I removed the tensioner and found it to be loose as I didn't use loc tight with the first install, once it was tight again all was fine.

 

I put the Krieger cam chain adjuster on a about 4500 mile on my new to me KLX. It is the first and best mod I have done. It really quieted the bike down. The original tensioner showed wear (rounded edges) on three teeth. I just did the 7500 mile valve clearance check and all valves were exactly in the mid range of the tolerance. I don't know if the adjuster had much to do with it. But I assume slop in the cam chain would increase valve train wear.
Mark Thanks for you design work!

 

Hi Guys,
A Krieger Cam Chain adjuster is on its way to me in Germany and while waiting for it I have time to ask about your installation advice to minimise the risks of screwing things up

1) When cranking the engine during cold set-up, to get the most slack possible, did you remove the crank plug on the left side? (Se Image) are there special tools needed and should a gasket or sealant be used when putting it back?
If I put the bike on a centre stand will oil come out during the operation?

2) As I can read in the service manual, the Kawasaki-torque specs for the 2 mounting bolts for the adjuster are 9,8 Nm (87 in lb). 72 in lb has been mentioned here, is there a reason to use less Torque? What sealant can be recommended in addition to Marks Gaskets?

Info about symptoms:
My Cam chain noise started at 7000km, not to loud but still annoying as hell. The stock adjuster was reset then and it has been almost quiet since, but around 6000rpm you can still hear a vague sound. Specially when revs are going from higher to lower and passing the 6k band on the way down. So I have decided to go with the manual one now and hope to have a successful installation!

Info about my bike:
A 2009 KLX250, FI, 8000 km. Had it since October last year, its my daily city-driver to work between the lanes of cars, and sometimes for dirt riding Lots of fun, and cant beat the fuel economy. Done 4500 km with it since October last year.
Mods so far:
Bridgestone Trail Wing Tyres, Foldable mirrors and de-Restricting it (FI version is electronically limited stock)

Thanks