always has to be a pioneer. Lol I don’t think it will be as crazy as most would think. I will definitely keep everyone posted.

 

It certainly isn't.
I'd gear up too if I didn't need a low first for work.

 

I have a 250, not a 300, but I'm surprised anybody wants to gear these numerically lower than stock, since even the 300 is still a very low HP bike. You're not concerned about sapping the acceleration?

 

No sir I am not.

 

Doesn't that basically negate your power gains though for a small reduction in vibration at cruising speeds? Have you considered rubber foot pads for the pegs that you could quickly install or remove as needed, plus pillow top grips that would reduce the amount of vibration to your hands? That would insulate you a bit while still allowing for the same performance level

 

Gearing doesn’t effect power. Never said anything about buzzing or vibration. More comfortable is that it does not need to be turning 6000 plus rpm’s in 6th at 60mph. IMO the bike will do just fine in the 5-5500 range. It’s not a motocross bike it’s a dual sport so it needs to perform on the street and off road. I am more of a logging road explorer and not a single track ,hill climbing ,wheeling,jumping rider. It’s all about how I use the bike.

 

Made my appointment for a dyno tune for the klx300. It’s going to be done on July 16. So results from delkavic slip on, Kdx snorkel, secondary throttle plate removed, all emissions removed and power commander will be coming soon.

 

Good deal, looking forward to the results.

 

Gearing doesn't change the horsepower output at the crankshaft, but it is very much has a final say in the acceleration of the bike, which is the only reason why we're seeking more horsepower at the crankshaft to begin with.

Also, think about chassis dynos. When you chassis dyno a vehicle, you have to make the pull in the vehicle's transmission gear that is 1:1 with the engine (which in a car is typically 4th gear for example). You have to use that 1:1 gear for the sake of accuracy. If you run consecutive dyno pulls, with the first pull in the 1:1 gear and the second pull in a lower gear, then the lower gear pull will measure a higher power output to the wheels than the 1:1 run. You can ask your dyno guy about this next month. My point is, gearing has a tangible effect on putting power to the ground that can't and shouldn't be glossed over.

The reason why cruising at lower RPM is more comfortable than cruising at higher RPM, is due to the reduced buzzing and vibration being transfered to the rider through the bars/pegs/seat.

That was my point, that you could try reducing vibration at the touch-points of the motorcycle with inexpensive parts that are made to do just that, such as pillow-top grips and weighted bar-ends. And if that does the trick and improves cruising comfort to your liking, then you'll have the benefit of not needing to sacrifice mechanical advantage at the driveline, which would allow you better acceleration. I assume if you're at the point of booking dyno time, then acceleration is something that matters to you.

 

I understand your concerns but your concerns are not mine. My dyno time is to set the A/F with the power commander and has nothing to do with peak HP numbers.
Not to come off sounding like an *** but I am 54 years old and started riding when I was 5 on dirt the street @18. I have owned 12 different street bikes and have always done all my own work from carb tuning to valve jobs, tire changes ect. I used to be in the gearing lower camp but have learned that it’s not always the best way to go. Are we to believe that every single bike ever built is geared too tall? Are we to believe that everyone wants to go 0-100 as fast as possible and wheelie in 3rd gear?
You do you and I will do me and keep your concerns to yourself thank you.