This thread over at ThumperTalk may or may not be relevant - the KLX300R and KLX250S share a whole lot of parts - maybe it is related to noise that some are reporting:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=402759

You can read the thread, but they say the noise referred to in that thread is from timing chain slap and that the chain tensioner on the KLX is not so great. Check the above thread for some options.

 

When are you guys hearing this ticking noise.. it does sound like valves on mine and its definately getting louder. i only have 1200 miles on mine and its not even a month old. i know my dealer will just tell me it is normal. can anyone tell me what the actual problem is and what the fix is so i can bring it to my dealers attention.. thanks!!!

 

Could someone please provide more specific details as to the symptoms and ultimate problem also the known fix. I think this would be useful to us less experienced with the klx. Also, does this make the extended warranty a more worthwhile consideration? Thanks.

 

That's interesting. I wonder how many of these noises could also be the OEM tensioner that we all know about now?

 

It was the tensioner in the end. I am pretty certain they changed the cam shaft for nothing.

 

Thread revived after 5 1/2 years of silence!?

 

if you ever suspect the kacr just disable it with safety wire for a test. My KLR kacr got so loose it would throw it's spring, then the noise would start. I ground the pins off and threw it away. Bike starts fine without it.

The cam chain clicking on my klx was solved by manually clicking the the tensioner up ONLY 1 more tooth on the adjuster along with close inspection of the ratchet mechanism.

 

is this stiil a thing to worry about? i hve clse to 45k in mine did the cam chain the firs day i had it and never looked back and no noises yet?

 

My 2007 makes noise from about 5k-6k rpm. My Krieger CCT should be here today (I hope).
I'm only guessing at the rpms based on indicated speed. My tach's inop and I have a 13T front so I'm guessing 50mph in 6th gear is about 5500 rpm. When a little more $$$s break loose I'll add a Vector speedo and an X2 headlight.

First I thought it was valve noise but traced it down to the cam chain tunnel and happened at about the right rpm range per previous threads. I thought about just pulling the auto tensioner and setting it 1 click out but everyone seems to be happy with the Krieger and it's a good deal as CCT's go.

 

I don't know about the 250s, but I've had everything possible with my cam drive on my 650...

Obviously the tensioner deal, it all started there with me back in 2000, the rest occurred due to my Zephyr.

The KACR on the 650 screwed up too, the spring fell off twice. The first time was when the tensioner and valves took a dump and it was missing - fished out of the bottom end with a magnet while the top end was being done. We restaked the KACR shoes at the same time to take out side play while still allowing easy radial movement.

The second one I heard the clatter, realized where it was coming from, pulled the cam cover and put on a new spring, thinking how it should be installed to avoid it coming off again. It makes a serious clatter at rpm below about 1250 rpm when the spring is off. Found that one still in the top of the head, but munched. Since I ended up with two weeks down time due to having to special order I ordered two, relying on Murphy's law (which has held so far), if you have one in reserve the other will never fall off again.

The last noise is simply the ticking of the valves. I shimmed my valves in the middle of the range and they do tick even when hot. That tick is a good tick, I know I won't be hanging a valve open to burn.

The point? Know where the noise is coming from. It isn't hard. You can do it by ear or by using a mechanic's stethoscope ($3 at Harbor Freight or $10 by ebay). You listen to the cam drive area, then the area around the KACR and finally around the valves. Really easy with the mechanic's stethoscope. I can locate the two loose valves in my Zephyr with mine. I have two at .011" (.010 is top recommended), but with it being a cams out job I figure it wasn't worth the work for a thou. My factory and racing trained mechanic friends agreed when I consulted with them.

On my KLX the cam drive is on the left with looseness of the cam drive making an audible tick in the tensioner area (failure on the automatic ones will make a fair amout of noise, a slightly loose manual adjust tensioner makes light ticking), the KACR on the right and clacks (not ticks) when the spring is off, and the valves in the middle which also have their own kind of ticking both cold and hot. My bike has valve ticking when hot and is audible at low rpm. As my one friend says - "a noisy valve is a happy valve". I'd rather hear them and adjust to the middle than burn them.

Know where noises come from and why, realize what sounds should be there, then fix what needs fixed and keep it in mind occasionally. Take off your helmet before you shut off the engine and listen to the engine.

Now I gotta go build tensioners... I'm behind after doing Mid Ohio this weekend...