Not so. We get the metal 300 slide as stock here in AUS. I filled the extra 'bleed' hole and the two holes the factory put in further up the slide (there to get our bike through local noise regulations, 82db.)

Great throttle response and still running the OE spring. I did open up the slide vent on the bottom to 7/64", usual mod. The metal slide is a 'durability' item, as the 300cc bike is a 'competition' model and the slide will get more use than the road/dual sport model. Not many riders use constant throttle on a track.

We also get the 300 needle jet and a#132 main stock. N1RX jet needle though no the adjustable N1TC as the 300cc bike gets.

 

The 300 slide up here doesn't have those upper holes, Oz.

I wonder if just leaving the bleed hole as is would provide the same results as filling it and then enlarging the other hole to compensate? Maybe you did more work than you had to.

Ron

 

It a local noise reg ' thing. Cheap fix by the factory.

I had to fill the upper holes anyway so not really any extra work.

I wonder if the slide would raise fully with a hole in the side of the slide? Surely it would affect the dynamic/efficiency of the vacuum! Every other CV carb' I've seen never has a hole in the side of the slide.

 

I got this in the mail today!

I've also got everything to do the head, I've never taken valves out before and I've never lapped valves in and I've gotta pop down to the shops to get some lapping paste, but I found a pretty easy way to get the valves out without any sort of specialized tool, I just used a magnet a socket and some man strength haha.

are my stock shims going to set the right clearance for my new kit? They seemed fine before I took them out? I know intake are supposed to be 0.10mm - 0.19mm and exhaust 0.15mm - 0.24mm I've never really set clearances before either, but I think I've got a good idea on what I should be doing. I was just going to measure the shims with verniers to make sure they are within the stock tolerance then set them up like stock then once the head is on and everything is pretty much together crank it over manually and make sure there isn't any resistance other than compression?

Am I right there?

 

Valves complete, getting the valves and springs out is the easy bit. GETTING THEM BACK IN ISN'T as fun.... Not without a specialized tool, anyone got some info on an easier way to do it? I used a 15 mm socket to put the first keeper in, then a big screwdrive to push the other side down, sounds rough yes... It was rough but effective.

 

You should seriously consider getting a mechanic to help you put your bike back together.

You will need to re-assemble the engine all the way to installing the cams, then check the clearances on the valves, then select the valve shims. Then remove the cams and insert the correct shims. Measuring the shims is out of the engine is useless.

If you seated new valves in the existing head, I would guess you would need one size thinner shims, but that would be a guess.... you may get lucky.

 

Just did that yesterday... and i measured the shims out of the engine... I know what the clearance had to be, measure what shim was in the bike, then found a shim that was 6 thousanths of an inch thinner... then put it all back together..... Its really not brain surgery.

 

Why do I need a mechanic? I have only lapped in new valves with grinding paste, I dont understand how it can change clearances to being out more than .01mm with the stock shim. I took very little off lapping in the new valves and they all seal. Is there something I am missing?

 

Something just clicked, different size piston right?

 

You don't need a mechanic.. Bikes are easy to work on. Shop manual, hand tools, done.


Anyways - when I replaced a valve, I made up this "tool" to help me:



Basically it sits on top of the valve, you clamp it down, and the cut-out window allows you to slip the keepers in.

Made very short work of installing the valve! Hope that helps